Pure Skin Talk covers acne to anti-aging and everything in between. These are short and easy to listen to episodes. They are not product specific so everyone can benefit! Sometimes specials are even offered to the online store and if you are local to Orange County for facials!!
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Acne is frustrating but I am trying to break it down for you to make it more clear…no pun intended. So let’s talk about blemishes…
I don’t know about you but when I learn new things or even want to start something new, I need to understand why it needs to happen. The more information I have, the easier it is to do it. So this is what your blemish needs to do to heal itself and how to get rid of them correctly.
Blemishes have an infection within the pore and that is why they can be painful and red. What should naturally happen is that the infection comes up through the skins surface (the white stuff). Cysts are different.
You aren’t going to like what I’m about to say but there is a way around it. If you are using something that dries out the surface of the skin, like most over the counter spot treatments do, your blemish will stick around longer. The dead skin stops the infection from being able to come to the surface, which as I explained above, needs to happen. I do have a product that kills the infection without drying the skin.
Here are the steps…
Apply a non-drying spot treatment
When a whitehead comes to the surface, you may then GENTLY squeeze it out. I think it’s best to do this after a shower when your skin is soft and hydrated. Once removed, apply the spot treatment to kill any infection left.
A lot of people dealing with acne or even just breakouts, wonder why they are left with red or dark marks long after the blemish is gone. It’s caused by the inflammation within the dermis that triggers the skin to product the pigment cells. And sometimes you are left with distended capillaries or broken capillaries as they are often called, and that causes more redness. If these areas are not properly treated then you will end up with a scar. The darkness of the mark varies based on different things.
The darker the skin, the darker the mark.
If the infection came up and broke through the surface, it will be darker. A cyst usually doesn’t cause as much damage because the body reabsorbed the infection and didn’t break the surface.
The time the blemish lasted plus how long YOUR skin takes to heal. Everyone is different.
And the most important last two and more easily avoided…how much you picked at it or used the wrong products. When you pick, it pushes the infection deeper into the skin and can also spread it. Using the wrong products can hurt the health of the skin.
Here is what you can do to treat the skin and avoid a scar.
Exfoliate the skin. Using a gentle acid exfoliant along with a gentle scrub will help lift off dead skin cells and the scarred cells. Don’t use them on the same days.
Vitamin C is also highly recommended to brighten the skin, calm the redness and help fade acne scars.
Wear SPF. It’s super important to protect the skin in general but when trying to heal the skin and avoid scarring, it becomes even more important. If you are acne-prone, make sure you aren’t using a sunscreen that will clog pores.
Using the right products is vital to getting rid of and healing acne and acne scars. What you were using when you were a teenager is not good for you as an adult. Many things change and we have to change accordingly. The breakouts that you had as a teen could be different than what you have as an adult. Plus, as we get older anti-aging products become important. And just because a product says “for acne,” doesn’t mean it’s good for your skin.
People with oily skin and/or acne tend to want to wear less product and skipping sunscreen seems like an easy thing to avoid. You shouldn’t. The sun is the #1 reason we scar so you have to protect your skin everyday of the year.
Over-exfoliating is another thing that some people do. Once we see results, we want to keep doing the thing that gave us those results. Less is more. You should never be exfoliating twice a day. It’s too much and is causing inflammation. And don’t forget that exfoliation can be physical like a scrub and also chemical like glycolic or salicylic acids.
Like I said above, those with oily/acne skin want to wear less product. Skipping moisturizer saves your skin, right? Nope. Letting your skin “breathe” is not a real thing. Here is why you want to wear a moisturizer.
Skin needs hydration. Applying a toner and serums on damp skin allows the moisturizer to lock all of that in. Without hydration, the skin will produce more oil.
And I am introducing something new. I get a lot of emails and social messages asking about different products. As much as I love my products and think they are great for the skin, not everyone uses them. Helping people love their skin is my goal, in whatever way it gets them there as long as it’s safe. So I am now offering Product Consultations. You send me a list of your products and I will give you my honest, educated opinion. I will go over each product. This will be done over email so that you have everything written down for you. After, if you have more questions, we can do a 15 minute consultation over the phone, email or messaging. I recommend email or messaging so again, you have it all written out and you don’t have to memorize what I’m saying. You will not be pressured to buy anything.
One of the most powerful functions of Vitamin C is it’s role in the production of collagen. As you age, collagen breaks down and wrinkles begin to form. Stabilizing your skin’s levels of Vitamin C can help to counteract wrinkle formation by increasing collagen production.
Age spots are essentially sun damage, and Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant, shown to reduce the number of sunburned cells as well as reverse age-related damage to the skin. It does not replace sunscreen, but Vitamin C protects against and may repair UV damage, like discoloration and fine lines.
There are different forms of vitamin c but one of the most stable is MAP (Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate). Stability is important because when it’s not, it can irritate the skin. That is why not all vitamin c’s are created equal. The one I recommend has MAP in it so therefore most people can use it without an issue.
Deep conditioning cream mask binds moisture to prevent water loss, dryness, and roughness while improving elasticity. Nourishing and rejuvenating blend of soothing oils, hyaluronic acid, and shea butter provides intensive, long-lasting hydration for dry, damaged, or mature skin. Your skin will feel so good after you use it. And you can even apply it to your hands for a deep conditioning hand mask. If the weather is making you feel dry, this mask will revitalize your skin again and give you back your glow.
You all have to be sick of me talking about this oil but I love it and think that it does such great things for the skin. Dry, oily, mature skin, acne skin, teens, babies…whatever your age, whatever your issue, this oil will work.
For those with dry skin, it will deeply hydrate and give you that youthful tone. If you have oily skin, it helps to balance out the oil and in turn, helps with acne.
I love these sponges! I’ve often said how sensitive my skin is so that means I have to be super careful with how I care for it and especially how I exfoliate it. Scrubs don’t work with my skin. They irritate it. Washcloths, even baby washcloths don’t work either. I can use these sponges every other night and my skin has seriously never been softer. These are perfect for winter time when your barrier (top layer that protects you) becomes compromised…meaning dry and sensitive. It’s still important to exfoliate but you have got to be gentle.
This moisturizer is not for everyone but those that do use it, love it! It immediately made my skin have a glow again. That’s not easy to achieve on dry skin.
Rich, creamy formula fortifies the skin’s essential moisture barrier, reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promotes firmness, resiliency, and lasting hydration for up to 24 hours. Features skin-refining peptides, ceramides, and cupuacu, shea, and kukui butters to soothe dryness and irritation. Highly effective for improving the appearance of crepey, weathered neck skin.
This is a good mask for all skin types. It’s tough when you are breaking out or even dealing with acne because sometimes (most of the time unless I’m treating you) the skin is also dry. You want a mask that will help hydrate but most that do that can also clog pores on acneic skin. Enter, the Moisture Infusion Mask. Packed with lots of serums that won’t cause breakouts but will hydrate and make the skin feel better. It comes in a pack of 4, but each mask can usually be used 2-3 times. And if you keep it in the fridge, then you will also get a firming effect. Great for holiday parties and date night!
As the seasons change so do the needs of our skin. Our skin can get drier, more oily, we can have more breakouts or maybe just more sensitivity. Don’t panic! It’s most likely not your products that have suddenly stopped working for you, it’s the weather that has changed your skin. All it means is that you need to change how you use your products. So much easier, right? And a money saver! Here are some ingredients with their side effects that may affect your skin differently in the winter. Change accordingly if you needed.
Retinol– A derivative of Vitamin A, this can be drying to the skin. You may not notice it as much during the summer but in the winter when our skin gets drier, this can wreak havoc on our moisture level. You don’t have to stop using this, just use less. The Retinol Serum below is the one I recommend to my clients. Most only use about twice a week anyway because I want them to avoid drying out their skin and dealing with all the other side effects. This seems to work best while still giving them great results.
Salicylic Acid– Great for acne and breakouts but extremely drying for the skin. When I recommend any product using this ingredient, I do not suggest using it everyday because I do not want to dry out the skin as the acne goes away. If you find your skin seems flaky or dry, cut it back a bit, maybe just once and go from there. You still want to use the product and get the effectiveness but with using it less. Sometimes even one less use can make a difference.
Vaseline– This seems like an odd choice to be on this list, right? Well, in the winter this seems to be the go-to product. A lot of people use it on their chapped lips, hands, feet, etc. Here’s the thing…it’s occlusive. That means it can’t penetrate the skin and will only sit on the surface. It will not moisturize the skin but it will protect it. Great to put over lotion on the hands and feet for extra hydration (it will lock in that moisture) and also for the nose area when you have a cold. It has no healing benefits though. It can clog pores on the face since it can’t penetrate so use with caution.
Benzoyl Peroxide– Same as salicylic acid but even more drying. Below is the only product I recommend with benzoyl peroxide and I always say, proceed with caution. Benzoyl Peroxide is an ingredient you only want to use temporarily (there are many side effects that aren’t good long-term). The severe drying side effect can actually age your skin. Whatever the season, use with caution. In the winter, think twice.
Hand Sanitizer– Although this is not for the face, I thought I would throw it in here anyway. 🙂 The alcohol and lack of water can really dry out your hands. Try washing your hands like we used to…with soap and water and then moisturize.
These are guidelines and suggestions. What works for one person may not work for another. Some may not be able to change their routine so that means you will need to add to your regimen so you can get more moisture. You need to compensate for the water being pulled out of your skin because if you don’t, your skin will start to produce more oil. This grapeseed oil is great for hydrating the ski without clogging the pores. Click on picture to learn more about it.
All of my clients know that peel season is my favorite season. I love the results and I love being able to make my clients happy with their skin again. I would do these year round if I could but the weather and the sun limits me. But now that we are here, let’s me tell why I love them so much.
Chemical peels can make your skin and your skin care products work better– The acid (there are many different ones) lifts dead skin and triggers a chain reaction. Once that top layer is gone, signals are then sent to the living cells below to multiply and move up, increase collagen production and act younger. Skin care products can now work even better because there are no dead skin cells to stop them.
Fully Customized Peels– Slow and steady wins the race. My series is done over 9 weeks. That is 7 peels. I will go as strong as your skin allows and tolerates. I want you to get the best results so whatever I can do that makes sense, I will do. Since it’s done over a period of time, I don’t need to hit your skin super hard. We can increase as we go along. Flaking is normal but you can still live your life and be out in the world.
Acne and Acne Scars– Getting a peel every week doesn’t allow bacteria to hang around. Yes, you can still get breakouts (skin is purging) but they usually get better as the peels go on. Acne scars will also improve. The healthier your skin, the better it looks.
Melasma is better treated with peels than lasers- This is a no-fun issue that many women have to deal with at some point. Hormones are to blame. The sun and heat make it worse. Chemical peels can lighten the dark skin in a very different way than lasers which is why often women will find the melasma returns after a few weeks. When done correctly and in conjunction with at-home care, the peels will usually lift the melasma.
I strongly encourage my clients to purchase products at home- I don’t really even want to do a series with the products because clients just won’t get the results they want. Will you see a change? Yes. Will it last and make a big difference? Probably not. When I do the peel, it sets your skin up to be ready to get the good ingredients on it. The ingredients that will lighten your skin, continue to kill bacteria, help smooth your skin and make it softer. If you’re going to spend the money, you might as well do it right. This also sets up my clients to see what the products can really do and gets them on a great routine, that becomes a habit.
Living in Orange County (Ca), we deal with warm weather most of the year. The reason we can start peels in November despite the 80 degree days is because we are not outside as much and the heat is not as long or strong each day. Going to the beach, having BBQ’s and outside parties are limited. You still need to wear sunscreen everyday but it’s easier to control how much sun we get.
If you live in Villa Park, Orange, Anaheim Hills or any surrounding city, please come see me. I will take good care of you and your skin. I can’t wait to see your after picture!
I have a lot of older clients that always ask me about their chest. They are concerned about sun damage, fine lines and wrinkles. Once the damage is done, it is much more difficult to treat the skin…but not impossible. Start caring for your skin now! The younger you are, the more you can do to prevent the damage. Below I have listed options for preventing and correcting this often neglected area.
1. Exfoliation. Just like your face, you body needs to be exfoliated to get rid of the dry skin so that products can properly penetrate and do the job correctly. Dead skin is an unwanted barrier. Unlike your face, you can exfoliate this area more often. I recommend using a Konjac Body Sponge every other day and a Glycolic Cleanser about 2-3x a week.
2. Treat the Skin. If you are using serums on your face, then apply them on your neck and chest too. Immediately after a shower.
3. Grapeseed Oil. This is great from head to toe. I personally use it all over my body and my skin is super soft. Even better, this is a great product for aging. Grapeseed Oil should be used at night after you get out of the shower.
4. SPF. Always, always, always wear sunscreen. This is true for your face and body. Don’t just extend it from your face, hoping it is enough for your neck and chest. Use enough that you are fully covered.
Hydration is the key to making fine lines and wrinkles look less obvious. The drier your skin is (anywhere on the body), the more you will see what you don’t want to show the world.
This is a common question and for many years I have said that everyone should use one. I have since changed my mind. I still see the value in them and still recommend them but now there are conditions.
The reason you use an eye cream is to hydrate the eye area to help with dark circles, puffiness and/or fine lines. This is either a preventative or corrective. The eye area is 7x thinner than your face so it does require something different than your moisturizer so there is definitely a benefit to an eye cream.
I stopped recommending them to everyone because if you are using serums in your routine then I don’t think you need another product for your eyes. Of course, this only applies if you are using the correct serums but I make sure that my clients are using the right ones so they aren’t missing out on anything.
The ingredients in the serums are small enough to penetrate into the eye area and give you what you need. I don’t know why an additional cream/serum is needed. I used myself as the guinea pig for this experiment. I stopped using an eye cream to see if I would see a difference and I haven’t. The serums I use are hydrating and will help with fine lines.
Another reason to start using an eye cream is to firm up the area during the day. You can also mix a little eye cream with your under eye concealer to make it less drying.
Now, if you aren’t using serums (or the right ones) then you MUST wear an eye cream/serum. Your eyes age the fastest and are the most abused so protect the area now! I suggest people start as young as 18-20.
How is it possible that almost (it seems) every OTC skin care company has the “secret” ingredient to anti-aging or acne or dry skin or whatever your skin ailment may be? They create these words that sound fancy, important and effective. In reality, they mean nothing because they made them up. I could create a word, give it a definition and start a buzz about it but that doesn’t mean it will do anything for your skin. Why don’t more people using these products have perfect skin or even better skin?
OTC products, as I have said before, can only do so much. They cannot correct the skin, they can only temporarily fix it. This means that even if the product seems to be working, once you stop using it your skin will go back to where it was before, possibly worse (depending on how long it has been). It’s important to use products that will correct your skin condition or help with aging.
I went off on a tangent, sorry. 🙂 Let’s get back to the point of this post! One ingredient is simply not going to be the answer for anyone. It will always be a combination of ingredients and a routine that will help your skin.
On the flip side of things, some companies don’t even tell you what is in their products and only tell you what they will do…or what they are advertised to do. Create a flashy commercial, a pretty ad and for some reason this convinces us to buy. I have fallen for it.
Bottom Line- Know what you are putting on your skin and why. Do your research. Make sure that it is beneficial long-term. We all want to look and feel beautiful immediately but if that is going to hurt your skin later, is it worth it?
When I went to Empire Academy of Makeup (best school ever!) many, many years ago, the first thing we learned was that if our skin didn’t look good then our makeup wouldn’t look good. In fact, the first course concentrated on skin so much that I fell in love with it and that is how I got started with skin care.
I’ve learned a lot along the way and things have definitely changed but one thing that always remains consistent is: your skin needs hydration and most people are dehydrated.
If you have dry skin, you most likely need oil and water in your skin. When you wear makeup, powders can age you and accentuate fine lines and wrinkles. And, of course, make you drier.
If you have oily skin, you have too much oil and not enough water. When you wear makeup, it feels like you need to re-apply often and you may be flaky in some areas.
Both of these issues can get better by properly hydrating your skin. A Hyaluronic Acid Serum is the best way to do this. It binds moisture to your skin and draws moisture in.
Does it seem like you always get a blemish in the same spot? There is a reason for this…
The pore may be damaged so it keeps getting re-infected. This is especially common for those who pick. (hint, hint) Picking blemishes loosens the lining of the cell and that causes the clogged oil to go deeper into the skin and that creates an inflammatory reaction.
If you use a drying spot treatment (toothpaste and most over-the-counter spot treatments) this will only dry out the surface infection of the skin. The bacteria is still lurking underneath and will eventually come to the surface again.