salicylic acid

Toners

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For the second week of product talk, I am going to discuss Toner. Mostly misunderstood, I will explain why they are important and talk about my favorite ones.

  1. The #1 reason why you should be using a toner is that it’s the last step in the cleansing process. It removes any excess cleanser, oil, dirt and makeup. But also, after you take a shower, a toner will removes chlorines and minerals often found in tap water. You know how your shower door has a film on it? That is what happens to your skin so it’s important to remove it.
  2. When you use a toner and leave the skin damp, it gives your skin moisture before applying serums and moisturizer therefore locking the hydration into the skin. Just make the toner is alcohol-free, otherwise you will just be drying out the skin.
  3. Toners will usually enhance your skin care regimen. Depending on which one your using, they can contain active ingredients to help skin issues. And research has shown that moist skin is actually 10 times more permeable than dry skin. So this means that leaving your skin damp when applying serums and moisturizer will allow the active ingredients to penetrate deeper therefore giving you better results.

I always recommend using a cotton square with a toner. Although some come in a pad form (as I will talk about later), others come in a spray. Spray the cotton and then wipe your face. By the way, these cotton wipes are so great! They do not absorb product like most cotton does so whatever you spray on it, is what you use. No wasted product and that saves you money!

Now I will discuss the toners I use and retail.

Cucumber Toner– Re-hydrates the skin while improving cellular functions and absorption of ingredients. Soothes and normalizes skin tissues. This is a client favorite because it smells so good and feels great on the skin. I recommend this as a daily toner for all skin types. This comes in a spray so you would use cotton to apply.
Benefits:
Topically Reduces Discomfort & Irritation
Assists in Boosting Hydration Levels

ISO-Cell Solution– A unique formula recommended for cleansing and providing supplemental nutrients for wound care. It mimics the composition of blood by providing nutrients from the outside, while complementing the bloodstream work from the inside. The benefits are accelerated healing process and retention of moisture for tissue regeneration. This does not have a scent, which appeals to some. I like this toner for those with acne. Since it’s healing, it helps while the skin is clearing up acne. This also comes in a spray so you would use cotton to apply. It’s used daily.

Clarifying Toner Pads- This acne control toner assists the cleanser in cellular turnover bringing oil and debris to the surface of the skin – the salicylic dries the uplifted oil. This step also removes excess dirt, oil and makeup left after the cleansing process. Tea tree calms and soothes the skin. Great for teens battling breakouts and acne. I also recommend these to adults dealing with acne. Since these pads have salicylic acid, they can be drying to the skin so I only recommend them to be used about 3-4 times a week and only at night. As I’ve said in previous podcasts, exfoliation should only be done at night and these definitely exfoliate. Sometimes these will tingle and sting a little bit but it goes away quickly.

Benefits:
Removes congestion
Reverses fine lines
Reduces oil production
Provides antibacterial protection
Heals cystic breakouts
Enhances cellular turnover

Glycolic and Retinol Pads– These pads break up surface oil to refine pores and reveal fresh, healthy skin. Kojic and arbutin lighten sun spots and scars left from blemishes. I love these pads for those who want to lift hyperpigmentation and also to brighten the skin. Like the Clarifying Pads, I only recommend these pads to be used about 3-4 times a week and at night. Sometimes these will tingle and sting a little bit but it goes away quickly.

I will also use these pads on my elbows and bottom of my feet. They make those areas so smooth!
Benefits:
Provides surface renewal and resurfacing
Purges and exfoliates
Removes oil and debris
Prevents future breakouts
Assists in Anti-wrinkle actions
Lightens pigmentation spots
Improves Skin Function

I really do love all these toners and they are great on their own but even better when added to a good skin care regimen.

Cleanser for the Skin

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Cleansers

I have noticed that often people will spend money on every other product in their routine and not care about their cleansers. Here’s the thing, yes it is washed off but what you use to cleanse the skin is actually important.

  1. When you use a cleanser, you don’t want it leaving your skin tight and dry because that means it stripped your skin.
  2. Sometimes even when you use a gentle cleanser, this can happen. Make sure you always finish your routine after cleansing. If you do it in the shower, make your skin care routine the first thing you do.
  3. Never use a bar of soap to cleanse your skin. The most simple reason is because the ingredients that bind a bar of soap together, are dehydrating (they have a high pH balance).
  4. Avoid cleansing oils. While I’m sure these feel great on those with dry skin, they unfortunately leave behind a residue of and barrier on the skin. This prevents your serums from getting deep within the skin where they need to go to benefit you the most. Even if you don’t think (or feel) it’s leaving behind a residue, it is. Using a water-soluble cleanser is important so that it washes away completely and you are left with a clean slate. Serums can do wonders for the skin but won’t be able to if they are blocked by a barrier of oil.
  5. Your cleansers can be used for shaving. It’s more expensive obviously but in a pinch, it’s an option.
  6. Cleansing should be done for about 30-45 seconds to make sure you get rid of all the dirt, oil and/or makeup.
  7. Professional cleansers go a long way because they are so concentrated so you don’t have to use a lot. This is actually true for all professional products.

Now I’m going to discuss the 4 cleansers I retail and use on myself and in my treatment room.

Pomegranate Creamy Cleanser– This creamy pomegranate cleanser nourishes and hydrates the skin with aloe vera as the pomegranate antioxidant brings the skin to life giving it a healthy, radiant glow.

These are great for dry skin but I have found that a lot of times a cream cleanser is used wrong and people don’t like it. It is to be used on dry skin with dry hands, almost like you’re applying your moisturizer. Massage in gently and rinse when done. You can also use cotton squares to remove it or a gentle washcloth. I suggest a baby washcloth since they are really gentle and soft.

Benefits of this cleanser:

  • Soothes Skin Irritation
  • Reduces Inflammation and Redness
  • Clarifies and Heals Breakouts
  • Assists in Boosting Hydration Levels
  • Limits Pigmentation and Scarring

Green Tea Citrus Antioxidant Cleanser- This green tea citrus cleanser contains grapefruit, lemon and yucca to remove excess oils as the green tea antioxidants calm the skin and bring it new life giving it a radiant glow. Lemon deep cleans while yucca soothes the skin. This one smells good.

This is definitely my biggest selling cleanser. People love it and so do I. I used to use the Pomegranate Cleanser but switched over to this one about 1 ½ ago when my skin started changing. It’s gentle and yet I know it’s cleansing my skin. No sting factor or dryness with this one.

Benefits:

Clarifies and removes excess oils
Maintains healthy cell function
Protects from bacterial attacks
Provides cellular protection from free radicals
Inhibits inflammation
Soothes and restores skin balance

Raspberry Refining Cleanser- This raspberry-based acne control cleanser will increase cellular turnover bringing oil and debris to the surface of the skin; salicylic then dries the uplifted oil. Tea tree calms and soothes the skin. And this has a nice raspberry smell.

This is a cleanser you would use about 2-4 times a week at night, depending on your skin. It has glycolic and salicylic acid and also tea tree oil to help fight blemishes. It’s more gentle so you probably won’t tingle with this one. I recommend this to all my teen clients and sometimes older clients when they are still dealing with breakouts. Also great for sensitive skin.

Benefits:

Provides surface renewal and resurfacing
Purges and exfoliates
Removes oil and debris
Prevents future breakouts

Glycolic Cleanser- This 17% glycolic cleanser breaks down oil and encourages cellular turnover to minimize oil and refine pores to reveal fresh, healthy skin.

You can definitely feel the glycolic in this one but it doesn’t hurt, only tingles. Great for anti-aging clients and for those who might still be dealing with mild breakouts. I recommend this to be used about 2-4 times a week at night, depending on your skin.

When I use my bio-brasion machine in my treatment room (which is a microdermabrasion machine on wet skin), this is the cleanser I will use with it. Makes the skin glow!

Benefits:

Refines Pores and Renews the Skin
Reduces Visible Wrinkles
Brightens and Invigorates the Skin
Assists in Boosting Hydration Levels
Reduces Acne Scars
Enhances Cellular Turnover

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Winter is Here- How’s Your Skin?

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As the seasons change so do the needs of our skin. Our skin can get drier, more oily, we can have more breakouts or maybe just more sensitivity. Don’t panic! It’s most likely not your products that have suddenly stopped working for you, it’s the weather that has changed your skin. All it means is that you need to change how you use your products. So much easier, right? And a money saver! Here are some ingredients with their side effects that may affect your skin differently in the winter. Change accordingly if you needed.

Retinol– A derivative of Vitamin A, this can be drying to the skin. You may not notice it as much during the summer but in the winter when our skin gets drier, this can wreak havoc on our moisture level. You don’t have to stop using this, just use less. The Retinol Serum below is the one I recommend to my clients. Most only use about twice a week anyway because I want them to avoid drying out their skin and dealing with all the other side effects. This seems to work best while still giving them great results.

Salicylic Acid– Great for acne and breakouts but extremely drying for the skin. When I recommend any product using this ingredient, I do not suggest using it everyday because I do not want to dry out the skin as the acne goes away. If you find your skin seems flaky or dry, cut it back a bit, maybe just once and go from there. You still want to use the product and get the effectiveness but with using it less. Sometimes even one less use can make a difference.

Vaseline– This seems like an odd choice to be on this list, right? Well, in the winter this seems to be the go-to product. A lot of people use it on their chapped lips, hands, feet, etc. Here’s the thing…it’s occlusive. That means it can’t penetrate the skin and will only sit on the surface. It will not moisturize the skin but it will protect it. Great to put over lotion on the hands and feet for extra hydration (it will lock in that moisture) and also for the nose area when you have a cold. It has no healing benefits though. It can clog pores on the face since it can’t penetrate so use with caution.

Benzoyl Peroxide– Same as salicylic acid but even more drying. Below is the only product I recommend with benzoyl peroxide and I always say, proceed with caution. Benzoyl Peroxide is an ingredient you only want to use temporarily (there are many side effects that aren’t good long-term). The severe drying side effect can actually age your skin. Whatever the season, use with caution. In the winter, think twice.

Hand Sanitizer– Although this is not for the face, I thought I would throw it in here anyway. 🙂 The alcohol and lack of water can really dry out your hands. Try washing your hands like we used to…with soap and water and then moisturize.

These are guidelines and suggestions. What works for one person may not work for another. Some may not be able to change their routine so that means you will need to add to your regimen so you can get more moisture. You need to compensate for the water being pulled out of your skin because if you don’t, your skin will start to produce more oil. This grapeseed oil is great for hydrating the ski without clogging the pores. Click on picture to learn more about it.

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Acne. How to Improve Your Skin

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Million dollar question, right? Sometimes acne can simply be caused by using the wrong products or not washing your skin at all. If this is the case, improving your skin will be much easier. Unfortunately, if your acne is hormonal then it will be much more difficult. We can usually improve the clarity, frequency and intensity though. Here are some tips…

1. Be consistent. Cleanse your skin every night and every morning.

2. Use products that are right for your skin and that will balance out the oil without dehydrating. Most OTC (over-the-counter, NOT professional) acne products take everything out of your skin and don’t replenish it. This can make things worse and/or cause you to age quicker.

3. Use Grapeseed Oil. This will hydrate your skin and balance the oil. Read here for al the benefits. My clients use and love this! It really does work. Cleanse, tone and apply oil. If you are using serums, apply those first and then the oil. A little goes a long way.

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4. Keep your pillowcase clean. Even though you are washing your face every night, this is still important. If have a more severe case, then you should be changing/washing it at least every week.

5. Use alcohol to clean your phones and sunglasses. Bacteria spreads very easily.

6. Don’t touch or pick at your face.

7. Get regular facials. Having an expert (like me!) do extractions helps. It’s better than you doing it and healthier for your skin.

8. Dairy can aggravate acne in some people. Give it up for 6-12 weeks to see if there is any significant improvement.

9. Drink lots and lots of water.

10. Make sure you aren’t using any pore clogging makeup. Heavy or thick foundations are not good for the skin. Try not reapply as the day goes on.

11. Wash your makeup brushes. You should wash them with baby shampoo at least twice a month and using a brush cleaner every single day. Of course, this is for people that wear makeup everyday. Adjust if necessary but those are the guidelines. Don’t reuse sponges and don’t use powder puffs.

12. Get a physical exfoliant like a sponge because it’s gentle.

13. Wear SPF because you should anyway but also because sometimes the sun can darken the blemishes and leave your skin with scars and hyper pigmentation.

14. Salicylic Acid should be in your products. This is dehydrating so remember to use other products that will replenish water loss. (see #3)

15. Be gentle. You don’t have to scrub hard or a lot to get results. Hopefully you are using effective products so that they can do all the work for you.

16. Have patience and know that it will not go away in a day or even a week. Avoid buying anything that tells you differently.

18. Book a consultation and/or facial with me. I can help! Book Here!!

Shop Acne Products:

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Tomorrow- Products to Avoid and Why

Peels, Peels, Peels. Let’s Change Your Skin!

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Updated: October 2017

I LOVE Peels! The season is here so book your series now and let’s get started!!

A chemical peel is a skin-resurfacing procedure. There is little to no downtime (minimal flaking) and the results are amazing!

Benefits: Smoother, Younger Looking Skin  ~Helps with Fine Lines and Wrinkles ~Hyperpigmentation  ~Texture  ~Acne Scars  ~Large Pores (reducing the appearance)

1. You don’t have to peel with a peel.
2. Visible exfoliation (flaking) is a symptom of the treatment. Everyone is different. Some may flake in certain areas on their face, some may flake all over and some may not flake at all.
3. Cellular change takes place in the epidermis (top layer) and dermis (2nd layer), regardless of the amount of visible flaking.
4. Peels are usually done in a series for best results. One will not give you what you want.


5. I will not do a peel on a new client until we have a consultation and/or a facial. It’s important that we are on the same page as far as what you want, what you can expect and what will actually be done. Plus, I need to see and touch your skin.
6. Home care products are key to producing great results. If you are using products at home that I recommended, then I know exactly how they work together with the peels. This is an important step. Not just for the results but also for the condition of your skin during the series. I’m almost hesitant to even do a series without the client using my products. When you purchase a series and products, it is always a better price.
7. Grape Seed Oil helps tremendously with these peels!

This client has done 2 Peel Series in 5 years and is very consistent with her home care routine, using all products I have recommended.

Book Your Appointment Today!

Beta Acid- Get Rid of Acne!

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The American Academy of Dermatology currently recognizes Salicylic Acid (Beta Acid) as one of the most effective agents available for acne skin by significantly reducing build up of dead skin cells through a gentle exfoliation process. Beta Acid used in conjunction with Le Mieux patent pending ingredient is a potent tool to achieve dramatic clearing of acne lesions and prevent changes within the follicle associated with the acne process.

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Are you having trouble with breakouts? Most topical treatments only work on the surface, temporarily getting rid of the problem. You need something that will get under the skin and kill the bacteria and infection so it goes away for good! And, it’s oil soluble, meaning it can dissolve into oil-clogged pores to remove buildup. I love this product because it is effective and easy to use. Great for cystic acne too!

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The Blemish Clear Mask…that works!

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Healing Acne Facial
This facial will be customized to fit your skin needs and skin type plus target acne and breakouts. It will include a Blemish Clear Mask that is a deep cleansing anti-inflammatory blemish control treatment.

It contains Microalgae Extracts and other biological plant extracts known to absorb excess sebum and clarify blemished skin. Natural Tea Tree Oil combats bacteria and reduces inflammation as it works with Zinc to regulate sebum metabolism. Willow Bark Extract, rich in natural Salicylic Acids, gently helps to exfoliate skin to reduce the build up of dead skin cells which can lead to clogged pores.

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I have been experimenting with this mask and I cannot believe the results! When I remove the mask from each client, their skin is brighter, clearer and much less irritated. Le Mieux has done it again! Their products are amazing and effective. 

Bonus! This mask is safe for pregnant women! I know a lot of women battle with their skin during pregnancy and are limited in what can be used on the skin so this is the PERFECT facial and mask to help heal and clear the skin.

The Enemy: Blackheads

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Ok, so we all have blackheads and it seems like they never go away. The good news is, there are solutions and ways to prevent, control and get rid of them. Let’s start from the beginning though and I will tell you what causes a blackhead.

Causes of Blackheads– Basically when a pore gets clogged with too much oil (which enlarges the pore) and then it mixes with built-up dead skin cells that cannot shed normally. The combination of the two then get exposed to air, which causes it to oxidize and turn black.

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How to Get Rid of Blackheads– You need to remove and absorb excess oil and also remove dead skin that isn’t shedding on its own. Not all products will do this, even though they claim to. Salicylic Acid and Glycolic Acid help along with gentle manual exfoliation. Scrubbing harshly and vigorously will not get them out. You will only irritate the skin. This is one of the reasons that pore strips do not work. These blackheads are not just sitting on the surface of the skin so it may appear that you got them out but you actually only got the tip of the blackhead. Using proper skin care products will balance out your skin and keep the blackheads away.

Recommended Products

Please skip the DIY remedies that are found online. Most of them do not work and can also cause permanent damage.

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The Pierced Nose

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One of the biggest skin issues I think I hear about today is large pores. People want to know how to make them smaller, less visible, etc. Well, I have some bad news for you…it is not possible. Your pores are your pores. That is why it is so important to use the right products for your skin, and to properly exfoliate your skin. These will help keep your pores clean. The bacteria, dead skin and oil is what enlarges them.

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So if this is a concern of yours, I would avoid getting your nose pierced. It is a large pore that will never go away. It is actually larger than your regular pores too. Makeup will get stuck in it…I’ve seen it! Is this something you want when you’re 40?

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Stop the Madness!

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Why do so many cleansers have exfoliating beads in them now? Exfoliating the skin twice a day is not healthy and that is what is happening now. And this is not just in the OTC products, I am also seeing it in professional brands. Are Estheticians seriously recommending to their clients to exfoliate everyday? This is what my new clients are telling me.

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I had a new client come in recently and she is using an exfoliating cleanser, an exfoliating toner with 3 different acids in it, a serum with salicylic acid every other night (yep, it’s a leave-on) and Renova when she feels like she needs it. When does her skin have a chance to rejuvenate? And the worst part is, her skin isn’t reacting well or improving with this routine. Luckily, she is open to change and is letting me switch her products.

Less is usually better.

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