We all want to fight the signs of aging and so we go to the malls, our Estheticians and Dermatologists, hoping they will have the answer, maybe even the cure for our wrinkles. From fighting free radicals to stimulating skin’s natural collagen production, anti-aging products make enticing promises.
Do they work? That’s what we want to know, right? Below I have listed 4 commonly listed ingredients and some evidence on whether they actually play an effect on your skin.
Peptides
As we age our skin gets thinner, loses fat and starts to sag and develop fine lines and wrinkles. We produce less collagen and elastin to keep our skin firm and plump. Oh my gosh!
Peptides are small proteins that help stimulate new cells to grow and to help skin cells to heal.
Scientists are still not sure how beneficial these actually are because of the size of the molecule. They are rather large and that makes it more difficult to deeply penetrate the skin. They can, however, do some good in a moisturizer and serum. This way they can hydrate the skin and make lines less noticeable. Whether they reduce wrinkles, the jury is still out.
Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHA’s)
Examples are glycolic, lactic and citric acids which are natural ingredients that come from fruits and milk sugars. They are great for exfoliation because they get rid of dead skin cells, allowing new cells to grow.
Each acid does something different for the skin. Lactic Acid (comes from sour milk) removes the dead skin cells so this will have a brightening effect. Glycolic Acid (comes from sugar cane) helps reduce fine lines and wrinkles which can make skin look smoother and tighter.
Retinols
A natural form of Vitamin A, this boosts the thickness and elasticity of the skin therefore reducing the signs of wrinkles.
There is an abundant amount of evidence to support that retinol works! Finding it in the right products is the tricky part because you need to have enough to get results. Most over-the-counter products cannot put enough retinol in them to give you the benefits you need. This Retinol Serum is amazing and when used correctly, can do great things for the skin.
Antioxidants
Help fight cell damage from free radicals, which are molecules that could injure cells and increase inflammation.
There are many antioxidants that are effective, however, the formulation is the most critical. Vitamins C and E are the most commonly used and time-tested.
What is exfoliation? It is the removal of surface dry skin cells. How do you know if you need to do it? Everyone needs to but it then becomes a question of how often and what should be used. This will all be discussed. And I want to be clear that my recommendations are in general terms since everyone really is different.
Why should you exfoliate? It’s considered a very important technique to achieving healthy and glowing skin. Sometimes when I perform a facial, I am surprised at the immediate difference in the skin after exfoliating.
Basics of exfoliation. We only want to exfoliate at night. When you do it in the morning, you make your skin more vulnerable to the sun but also, the products that are used at night are usually (supposed to be) products to help repair the skin and stimulate cellular regeneration. Freshly exfoliated skin will take in these ingredients much better.
And generally speaking, you want to exfoliate about 3-4 times a week. This number changes based on your skin and skin needs and also what you want accomplished.
Here are some things that can happen if you exfoliate daily…
Flaking, redness and underlying inflammation of the skin because the moisture barrier is damaged.
Dryness and dehydration
Sometimes we do damage that cannot be seen. You can age the skin prematurely when there is chronic inflammation
You can destroy healthy cells
The more you exfoliate the more you are stimulating melanin activity and that can result in hyperpigmentation
Products that used to work for you may not anymore because you have stripped and irritated the skin
There are 2 types of exfoliation. Physical and Chemical. A physical exfoliate is a facial brush, facial sponge, scrub, washcloth or anything similar that will lift off dead skin and a chemical exfoliate dissolves the dead skin and examples of that is a glycolic acid or salicylic acid.
As always for the product talk episode, I will discuss the products I use and retail.
SS Retinol 2% Exfoliating Scrub– This scrub is a powerful cellular turnover scrub with Retinol (Vitamin A) and jojoba beads to clean, soothe and polish the skin. The retinol encourages the breakup of blackheads and clogged pores, jojoba beads gently exfoliate dead skin cells, while kojic lightens age spots and blemishes left from scars. I love this one because it doubles as a mask. I always tell my clients to use it in the shower. Cleanse your face, apply the scrub and let it sit for about 10 minutes. The steam from the shower will help push the ingredients into the skin (kind of like when estheticians use steam during a facial). Shave your legs, wash your body or whatever while the mask does its job and then rinse off. Of course you don’t have to do it this way.
Benefits:
Lessens Visible Aging
Lightens Discolorations
Provides Chemical and Physical Exfoliation
Promotes Collagen Synthesis
Assists in Healing and Rejuvenating
SS Raspberry Refining Scrub– Polish and energize the skin with the antioxidants raspberry and marionberry which will brighten skin and provide anti-inflammatory-like benefits to soothe skin irritations. Jojoba beads and blue corn meal gently exfoliate to remove surface build-up provides physical exfoliation while exfoliating and lightening ingredients work in tandem to promote a clear, healthy skin tone. For all skin types as a mechanical exfoliation. Safe for pregnant and breast-feeding women. I like to always be honest with you so I’m going to tell you that this is not my favorite scrub. I have clients that love it and it’s safe during pregnancy, which is nice to have an alternative. There is nothing wrong with it but it’s just not my go-to.
SS Glycolic and Retinol Pads– These pads break up surface oil to refine pores and reveal fresh, healthy skin. Kojic and arbutin lighten sun spots and scars left from blemishes. I’ve talked about these on other episodes. These are really great because they do so many things. Here’s the thing…if you’re looking to lighten your skin and make a change, these will do it. Plus, they can be used on your neck, chest, hands, feet and elbows.
Benefits:
Provides surface renewal and resurfacing
Purges and exfoliates
Removes oil and debris
Prevents future breakouts
Assists in Anti-wrinkle actions
Lightens pigmentation spots
Improves Skin Function
Great for lightening the skin!
SS Beta Carotene/Papain Renewal Serum– Yes, this is a serum but it’s also considered a form of exfoliation. With aloe and olive. A mild exfoliation serum for sensitive skin. Beta carotene is a precursor to Vitamin A; papain is an enzyme derived from papayas. May be used on pregnant or lactating women which is why I retail this one and why it’s so great. When you’re pregnant, you’re very limited on what you can use and this helps.
Benefits:
Improves Skin Barrier Integrity by Balancing Surface Lipids
Exfoliates to Reduce Visible Wrinkles
Anti-Inflammatory
LM Beta Acid– The American Academy of Dermatology currently recognizes Salicylic Acid (Beta Acid) as one of the most effective agents available for acne skin by significantly reducing build up of dead skin cells through a gentle exfoliation process. You actually apply this at night and leave it on. It has done amazing things for my clients. When it comes to acne you really do need something strong that will actually go deep into the skin and kill the bacteria. Salicylic is my favorite because it’s more gentle. It’s under exfoliation because it’s an acid and will help exfoliate the skin.
LM Vita-C Clear Skin Pad– Gentle micro-peel exfoliates and prepares the epidermal cell layers for faster and more effective penetration of other nutrients. Natural Vitamin C is infused within the soft fabric to help to brighten skin for a natural glow. These are definitely different than the Glycolic/Retinol Pads because first of all, they contain vitamin c but also because these pads are more about setting the skin up for the serums you apply after. And of course, they do exfoliate the skin.
LM Perfect Renewal System– This skin-perfecting system clears congested pores, improves uneven skin tone, and reduces the appearance of fine lines and blemishes. Features mandelic acid to enhance cellular turnover, while vitamin B, hyaluronic acid, and alpha-arbutin promote a smooth, radiant complexion. WHAT DOES IT DO? Clears congested pores and excess oil without causing dryness. Improves uneven tone and texture. Helps smooth out fine lines. Reduces the appearance of blemishes, including back acne. Restores radiant glow. These are closer to the Glycolic/Retinol Pads so I would choose one over the other, not both. I do love both though. These are probably a little bit more gentle and better for my sensitive skin. But to be honest, I use both and just switch when I run out of one. These have hyaluronic acid and we all know how great that is for the skin.
5% Glyco Polymer Solution– This polymerized micro-peel lightly exfoliates the skin with glycolic and lactic acids to refine uneven texture, clear and tighten pores, and minimize the appearance of fine lines. Features a marine enzyme known to preserve the skin’s collagen network, plus soothing botanical extracts that promote a smooth, healthy complexion with fewer breakouts. Wanna know why I sell this one? For Keratosis Pilaris or chicken skin. It’s those little red bumps that people get on the back of their arms. This is really great for getting rid of them. Of course it can be used on the face too but it’s not my first choice.
LM Ultrasonic Spatula– I love this tool. I talked about this on my episode about at-home tools. This is one of 2 devices that I retail and my most favorite. I actually use it in almost every facial. It gently exfoliates and helps lift clogged pores. Makes extractions easier during a facial. It’s so great for home use because you can’t really over use it, as most tend to do with devices. It’s like a little earthquake for the skin…shakes things up! And when you flip it over, it can help infuse your serums deeper into the skin.
All of my clients know that peel season is my favorite season. I love the results and I love being able to make my clients happy with their skin again. I would do these year round if I could but the weather and the sun limits me. But now that we are here, let’s me tell why I love them so much.
Chemical peels can make your skin and your skin care products work better– The acid (there are many different ones) lifts dead skin and triggers a chain reaction. Once that top layer is gone, signals are then sent to the living cells below to multiply and move up, increase collagen production and act younger. Skin care products can now work even better because there are no dead skin cells to stop them.
Fully Customized Peels– Slow and steady wins the race. My series is done over 9 weeks. That is 7 peels. I will go as strong as your skin allows and tolerates. I want you to get the best results so whatever I can do that makes sense, I will do. Since it’s done over a period of time, I don’t need to hit your skin super hard. We can increase as we go along. Flaking is normal but you can still live your life and be out in the world.
Acne and Acne Scars– Getting a peel every week doesn’t allow bacteria to hang around. Yes, you can still get breakouts (skin is purging) but they usually get better as the peels go on. Acne scars will also improve. The healthier your skin, the better it looks.
Melasma is better treated with peels than lasers- This is a no-fun issue that many women have to deal with at some point. Hormones are to blame. The sun and heat make it worse. Chemical peels can lighten the dark skin in a very different way than lasers which is why often women will find the melasma returns after a few weeks. When done correctly and in conjunction with at-home care, the peels will usually lift the melasma.
I strongly encourage my clients to purchase products at home- I don’t really even want to do a series without the products because clients just won’t get the results they want. Will you see a change? Yes. Will it last and make a big difference? Probably not. When I do the peel, it sets your skin up to be ready to get the good ingredients on it. The ingredients that will lighten your skin, continue to kill bacteria, help smooth your skin and make it softer. If you’re going to spend the money, you might as well do it right. This also sets up my clients to see what the products can really do and gets them on a great routine, that becomes a habit.
Purchase your series by February 16th and you will receive a FREE DermaRed LED or FREE Ultrasonic Spatula (while supplies last).
DermaRed LED
What is it?
4-in-1 youth-activating system provides four technologically superior treatments into one tool to minimize the appearance of lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone and elasticity, deep cleanse pores, and infuse waterbased treatments for firmer, smoother, more lifted and radiant-looking skin. LED red light, ultrasonic waves, and positive and negative ions visibly help reverse signs of prematurely aging skin after every treatment.
What does it do?
LED red light airbrushes away the appearance of lines and wrinkles and improves the look of age spots and photo damage
Ultrasonic waves stimulate blood circulation and improve the appearance of skin tone and texture
Positive ions deep cleanse pores of excess oil and impurities
Negative ions accelerate the absorption of serums and other water-based skincare products
Ultrasonic Spatula
Professional strength ultrasonic waves gently cleanse, exfoliate, extract, and infuse to reveal smoother, brighter, and perfect-looking skin.
Micro-massage action provides 28,000 ultrasonic vibrations per second to gently cleanse, tone, and stimulate the skin while accelerating the absorption of serums and gels, and other water-based products. In fact, any skincare product that is not oil-based will provide better results with the Skin Perfecter.
Plus, the Skin Perfecter is easy to use and never requires brushes, cartridges, or discs.
This client first came to me when she was pregnant. After she was done breast-feeding, we started a chemical peel series. 5 years later, her skin is healthy. Her biggest concern was that the acne would leave her scarred.
Living in Orange County (Ca), we deal with warm weather most of the year. The reason we can start peels in November despite the 80 degree days is because we are not outside as much and the heat is not as long or strong each day. Going to the beach, having BBQ’s and outside parties are limited. You still need to wear sunscreen everyday but it’s easier to control how much sun you get.
I will take good care of you and your skin. I can’t wait to see your after picture!
Skin Care Blog 