hyperpigmentation

Exfoliating Products

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What is exfoliation? It is the removal of surface dry skin cells. How do you know if you need to do it? Everyone needs to but it then becomes a question of how often and what should be used. This will all be discussed. And I want to be clear that my recommendations are in general terms since everyone really is different.

Why should you exfoliate? It’s considered a very important technique to achieving healthy and glowing skin. Sometimes when I perform a facial, I am surprised at the immediate difference in the skin after exfoliating.

Basics of exfoliation. We only want to exfoliate at night. When you do it in the morning, you make your skin more vulnerable to the sun but also, the products that are used at night are usually (supposed to be) products to help repair the skin and stimulate cellular regeneration. Freshly exfoliated skin will take in these ingredients much better.

And generally speaking, you want to exfoliate about 3-4 times a week. This number changes based on your skin and skin needs and also what you want accomplished.

Here are some things that can happen if you exfoliate daily…

  1. Flaking, redness and underlying inflammation of the skin because the moisture barrier is damaged.
  2. Dryness and dehydration
  3. Sometimes we do damage that cannot be seen. You can age the skin prematurely when there is chronic inflammation
  4. You can destroy healthy cells
  5. The more you exfoliate the more you are stimulating melanin activity and that can result in hyperpigmentation
  6. Products that used to work for you may not anymore because you have stripped and irritated the skin

There are 2 types of exfoliation. Physical and Chemical. A physical exfoliate is a facial brush, facial sponge, scrub, washcloth or anything similar that will lift off dead skin and a chemical exfoliate dissolves the dead skin and examples of that is a glycolic acid or salicylic acid.

As always for the product talk episode, I will discuss the products I use and retail.

SS Retinol 2% Exfoliating Scrub– This scrub is a powerful cellular turnover scrub with Retinol (Vitamin A) and jojoba beads to clean, soothe and polish the skin. The retinol encourages the breakup of blackheads and clogged pores, jojoba beads gently exfoliate dead skin cells, while kojic lightens age spots and blemishes left from scars. I love this one because it doubles as a mask. I always tell my clients to use it in the shower. Cleanse your face, apply the scrub and let it sit for about 10 minutes. The steam from the shower will help push the ingredients into the skin (kind of like when estheticians use steam during a facial). Shave your legs, wash your body or whatever while the mask does its job and then rinse off. Of course you don’t have to do it this way.
Benefits:
Lessens Visible Aging
Lightens Discolorations
Provides Chemical and Physical Exfoliation
Promotes Collagen Synthesis
Assists in Healing and Rejuvenating

SS Raspberry Refining Scrub– Polish and energize the skin with the antioxidants raspberry and marionberry which will brighten skin and provide anti-inflammatory-like benefits to soothe skin irritations. Jojoba beads and blue corn meal gently exfoliate to remove surface build-up provides physical exfoliation while exfoliating and lightening ingredients work in tandem to promote a clear, healthy skin tone. For all skin types as a mechanical exfoliation. Safe for pregnant and breast-feeding women. I like to always be honest with you so I’m going to tell you that this is not my favorite scrub. I have clients that love it and it’s safe during pregnancy, which is nice to have an alternative. There is nothing wrong with it but it’s just not my go-to.

SS Glycolic and Retinol Pads– These pads break up surface oil to refine pores and reveal fresh, healthy skin. Kojic and arbutin lighten sun spots and scars left from blemishes. I’ve talked about these on other episodes. These are really great because they do so many things. Here’s the thing…if you’re looking to lighten your skin and make a change, these will do it. Plus, they can be used on your neck, chest, hands, feet and elbows.
Benefits:
Provides surface renewal and resurfacing
Purges and exfoliates
Removes oil and debris
Prevents future breakouts
Assists in Anti-wrinkle actions
Lightens pigmentation spots
Improves Skin Function

Great for lightening the skin!

SS Beta Carotene/Papain Renewal Serum– Yes, this is a serum but it’s also considered a form of exfoliation. With aloe and olive. A mild exfoliation serum for sensitive skin. Beta carotene is a precursor to Vitamin A; papain is an enzyme derived from papayas. May be used on pregnant or lactating women which is why I retail this one and why it’s so great. When you’re pregnant, you’re very limited on what you can use and this helps.

Benefits:

Improves Skin Barrier Integrity by Balancing Surface Lipids

Exfoliates to Reduce Visible Wrinkles

Anti-Inflammatory

LM Beta Acid– The American Academy of Dermatology currently recognizes Salicylic Acid (Beta Acid) as one of the most effective agents available for acne skin by significantly reducing build up of dead skin cells through a gentle exfoliation process. You actually apply this at night and leave it on. It has done amazing things for my clients. When it comes to acne you really do need something strong that will actually go deep into the skin and kill the bacteria. Salicylic is my favorite because it’s more gentle. It’s under exfoliation because it’s an acid and will help exfoliate the skin.

LM Vita-C Clear Skin Pad– Gentle micro-peel exfoliates and prepares the epidermal cell layers for faster and more effective penetration of other nutrients. Natural Vitamin C is infused within the soft fabric to help to brighten skin for a natural glow. These are definitely different than the Glycolic/Retinol Pads because first of all, they contain vitamin c but also because these pads are more about setting the skin up for the serums you apply after. And of course, they do exfoliate the skin.

LM Perfect Renewal System– This skin-perfecting system clears congested pores, improves uneven skin tone, and reduces the appearance of fine lines and blemishes. Features mandelic acid to enhance cellular turnover, while vitamin B, hyaluronic acid, and alpha-arbutin promote a smooth, radiant complexion. WHAT DOES IT DO? Clears congested pores and excess oil without causing dryness. Improves uneven tone and texture. Helps smooth out fine lines. Reduces the appearance of blemishes, including back acne. Restores radiant glow. These are closer to the Glycolic/Retinol Pads so I would choose one over the other, not both. I do love both though. These are probably a little bit more gentle and better for my sensitive skin. But to be honest, I use both and just switch when I run out of one. These have hyaluronic acid and we all know how great that is for the skin.

5% Glyco Polymer Solution– This polymerized micro-peel lightly exfoliates the skin with glycolic and lactic acids to refine uneven texture, clear and tighten pores, and minimize the appearance of fine lines. Features a marine enzyme known to preserve the skin’s collagen network, plus soothing botanical extracts that promote a smooth, healthy complexion with fewer breakouts. Wanna know why I sell this one? For Keratosis Pilaris or chicken skin. It’s those little red bumps that people get on the back of their arms. This is really great for getting rid of them. Of course it can be used on the face too but it’s not my first choice.

LM Ultrasonic Spatula– I love this tool. I talked about this on my episode about at-home tools. This is one of 2 devices that I retail and my most favorite. I actually use it in almost every facial. It gently exfoliates and helps lift clogged pores. Makes extractions easier during a facial. It’s so great for home use because you can’t really over use it, as most tend to do with devices. It’s like a little earthquake for the skin…shakes things up! And when you flip it over, it can help infuse your serums deeper into the skin.

Chemical Peels. Make a Difference in Your Skin.

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All of my clients know that peel season is my favorite season. I love the results and I love being able to make my clients happy with their skin again. I would do these year round if I could but the weather and the sun limits me. But now that we are here, let’s me tell why I love them so much.

  1. Chemical peels can make your skin and your skin care products work better– The acid (there are many different ones) lifts dead skin and triggers a chain reaction. Once that top layer is gone, signals are then sent to the living cells below to multiply and move up, increase collagen production and act younger. Skin care products can now work even better because there are no dead skin cells to stop them.
  2. Fully Customized Peels– Slow and steady wins the race. My series is done over 9 weeks. That is 7 peels. I will go as strong as your skin allows and tolerates. I want you to get the best results so whatever I can do that makes sense, I will do. Since it’s done over a period of time, I don’t need to hit your skin super hard. We can increase as we go along. Flaking is normal but you can still live your life and be out in the world.
  3. Acne and Acne Scars– Getting a peel every week doesn’t allow bacteria to hang around. Yes, you can still get breakouts (skin is purging) but they usually get better as the peels go on. Acne scars will also improve. The healthier your skin, the better it looks.
  4. Melasma is better treated with peels than lasers- This is a no-fun issue that many women have to deal with at some point. Hormones are to blame. The sun and heat make it worse. Chemical peels can lighten the dark skin in a very different way than lasers which is why often women will find the melasma returns after a few weeks. When done correctly and in conjunction with at-home care, the peels will usually lift the melasma.
  5. I strongly encourage my clients to purchase products at home- I don’t really even want to do a series without the products because clients just won’t get the results they want. Will you see a change? Yes. Will it last and make a big difference? Probably not. When I do the peel, it sets your skin up to be ready to get the good ingredients on it. The ingredients that will lighten your skin, continue to kill bacteria, help smooth your skin and make it softer. If you’re going to spend the money, you might as well do it right. This also sets up my clients to see what the products can really do and gets them on a great routine, that becomes a habit.

Purchase your series by February 16th and you will receive a FREE DermaRed LED or FREE Ultrasonic Spatula (while supplies last).

DermaRed LED 

What is it?

4-in-1 youth-activating system provides four technologically superior treatments into one tool to minimize the appearance of lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone and elasticity, deep cleanse pores, and infuse waterbased treatments for firmer, smoother, more lifted and radiant-looking skin. LED red light, ultrasonic waves, and positive and negative ions visibly help reverse signs of prematurely aging skin after every treatment.

What does it do?

  • LED red light airbrushes away the appearance of lines and wrinkles and improves the look of age spots and photo damage
  • Ultrasonic waves stimulate blood circulation and improve the appearance of skin tone and texture
  • Positive ions deep cleanse pores of excess oil and impurities
  • Negative ions accelerate the absorption of serums and other water-based skincare products

Ultrasonic Spatula 

Professional strength ultrasonic waves gently cleanse, exfoliate, extract, and infuse to reveal smoother, brighter, and perfect-looking skin.

Micro-massage action provides 28,000 ultrasonic vibrations per second to gently cleanse, tone, and stimulate the skin while accelerating the absorption of serums and gels, and other water-based products. In fact, any skincare product that is not oil-based will provide better results with the Skin Perfecter.

Plus, the Skin Perfecter is easy to use and never requires brushes, cartridges, or discs.

 

This client first came to me when she was pregnant. After she was done breast-feeding, we started a chemical peel series. 5 years later, her skin is healthy. Her biggest concern was that the acne would leave her scarred.

 

Living in Orange County (Ca), we deal with warm weather most of the year. The reason we can start peels in November despite the 80 degree days is because we are not outside as much and the heat is not as long or strong each day. Going to the beach, having BBQ’s and outside parties are limited. You still need to wear sunscreen everyday but it’s easier to control how much sun you get.

I will take good care of you and your skin. I can’t wait to see your after picture!

Book Online!

If you have any questions, please email me: devyn@psblounge.com

Hyperpimentation. How to Fix It!

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Hyperpigmentation. It’s something we all struggle with, unfortunately. There are a lot of products out there making huge promises to get rid of it for. I’m going to break it down and explain to you the best options for the skin, without damaging the skin. As you know, that is always my goal. Let’s fix the problem without causing another one.

Some people are more prone to it than others, based on genetics, but everyone is susceptible. From the fairest skin to the darkest. This is why wearing sunscreen is so important for everyone (I’ll get more into that later).

Remember, no one is born with it. Every baby is free of hyperpigmentation, including freckles, which is also a type of hyperpigmentation.

Freckles are caused by melanin. Melanin is a pigment in the skin and is what gives skin its color. When the sun hits the skin, it causes a production on melanin so that it can protect the skin layers underneath. Once melanin builds up in one place, a freckle is the result.

Here are some ways our skin develops the pigmentation.

Sun Exposure– The sun triggers the production of melanin. The skin is usually worse in the summer months. Using good skin care and regular facial treatments, you can minimize damage. It is completely normal to have your skin get darker in some spots in the summer and lighter in those same spots in the winter. I want to also say, and this is important to remember, sun damage can take up to 10 years to show. That means you can think that your skin is fine after a summer in the sun but later your skin will show the damage. I haven’t tanned my face in 10 years and I am still surprised at the damage that shows up. I had a good time in my teen years and my 20’s!

Heat– This one usually surprises people. Most think that as long as they avoid the actual sun, they will not have any pigmentation. It definitely helps but heat triggers inflammation and inflammation triggers the increase of melanin activity. So even if you go to the beach and wear sunscreen, big sunglasses, a big hat and sit under a big umbrella you can still get the damage. Sorry, folks!

Over-Exfoliation– I am super careful with my clients on how often they exfoliate. When I create a home care plan for them, I consider both the physical and chemical exfoliations. Too much can cause pigmentation. As I said above, inflammation triggers the increase of melanin activity. Even if you can’t see the inflammation, it can still be happening.

Picking at Blemishes/Acne– This is bad for many reasons but one of the biggest ones is that it can create what is called post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). And like sun damage, you don’t always see it until a few years later.

Hormones– Due to the increase of hormones during pregnancy, melasma is often caused. Just another form of pigmentation but harder to lighten. A lot of women will experience what is called a “pregnancy mask.” The upper lip will darken. This can also happen with birth control and even some medications. Always ask your doctor. I have seen many clients with melasma all over their face so it’s not exclusive to the upper lip. Everyone is different in how they will react but there are some worse than others. I once took a birth control pill and immediately started getting that mask above my lip and I switched that pill real fast! Luckily, no long-term damage was done.

Now I will discuss ways to help the pigmented areas.

Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant, shown to reduce the number of sunburned cells as well as reverse age-related damage to the skin. Antioxidants help fight cell damage from free radicals, which are molecules that could injure cells and increase inflammation.

It does not replace sunscreen, but Vitamin C protects against and may repair UV damage, like discoloration. It also helps brighten the skin, which can make the overall appearance of the skin healthier. This is safe for those pregnant or lactating.

Retinol- A natural form of Vitamin A, this boosts the thickness and elasticity of the skin therefore reducing the signs of wrinkles.

There is an abundant amount of evidence to support that retinol works! Finding it in the right products is the tricky part because you need to have enough to get results. Most over-the-counter products cannot put enough retinol in them to give you the benefits you need. Retinol works by promoting cellular renewal and collagen production to improve skin texture and to diminish brown spots. Not safe for those pregnant and lactating.

This serum is a little more expensive but you only use it about twice a week so lasts longer!

Exfoliation- It’s important not to exfoliate the skin to break up the pigmented areas. As I said before, be careful not to over-exfoliate. I have a great scrub that also acts as a mask. It has glycolic acid and retinol in it with gentle jojoba beads. I love it because over time it helps to lighten and lift hyperpigmentation. I also have these amazing glycolic/retinol pads that act as a toner so it’s a leave-on. Perfect for hyperpigmentation. Book a product consultation with me if you are interested in having me look over your routine using your products.

Great for lightening the skin!

 

Sunscreen- Wear it everyday. SPF 30 is the perfect number. Most damage is done incidentally (about 78%), which means when you are not at the beach but just running errands around town or sitting in your car or next to a window at work. And just as a reminder, sunscreen in your makeup will not help. You have to wear about 7x the amount to actually get that number on the bottle. Sunscreen is skin care and skin care is separate from makeup. Skin care first, makeup second.

Facials- Always important but getting a facial (book with me if you’re local!) when dealing with a specific skin issue will definitely help. Make sure you address your concerns with your esthetician. What you see and what she (or he) sees may be different.

Chemical Peels- Oh my gosh! Anyone who knows me know these are my favorite especially when done in a series. I will only perform the chemical peel series between November and May because of the sun exposure. I am strict on this rule. No point in fixing the skin while damaging it. My series are done weekly over 8 weeks. Slow and steady. I recommend a home care plan so my clients can get the most benefits. They basically have no downtime and can resume normal activities. They might experience some flaking but nothing embarrassing or that will make you want to hide out in your house. You don’t have to peel with a peel because all the change is happening under the top layer.

Results from a Chemical Peel Series and using recommended home care products.

 

www.PSBLounge.com

Listen to the podcast, Pure Skin Talk. 

Acne. How to Improve Your Skin

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Million dollar question, right? Sometimes acne can simply be caused by using the wrong products or not washing your skin at all. If this is the case, improving your skin will be much easier. Unfortunately, if your acne is hormonal then it will be much more difficult. We can usually improve the clarity, frequency and intensity though. Here are some tips…

1. Be consistent. Cleanse your skin every night and every morning.

2. Use products that are right for your skin and that will balance out the oil without dehydrating. Most OTC (over-the-counter, NOT professional) acne products take everything out of your skin and don’t replenish it. This can make things worse and/or cause you to age quicker.

3. Use Grapeseed Oil. This will hydrate your skin and balance the oil. Read here for al the benefits. My clients use and love this! It really does work. Cleanse, tone and apply oil. If you are using serums, apply those first and then the oil. A little goes a long way.

girl-with-pimples-and-mirror

4. Keep your pillowcase clean. Even though you are washing your face every night, this is still important. If have a more severe case, then you should be changing/washing it at least every week.

5. Use alcohol to clean your phones and sunglasses. Bacteria spreads very easily.

6. Don’t touch or pick at your face.

7. Get regular facials. Having an expert (like me!) do extractions helps. It’s better than you doing it and healthier for your skin.

8. Dairy can aggravate acne in some people. Give it up for 6-12 weeks to see if there is any significant improvement.

9. Drink lots and lots of water.

10. Make sure you aren’t using any pore clogging makeup. Heavy or thick foundations are not good for the skin. Try not reapply as the day goes on.

11. Wash your makeup brushes. You should wash them with baby shampoo at least twice a month and using a brush cleaner every single day. Of course, this is for people that wear makeup everyday. Adjust if necessary but those are the guidelines. Don’t reuse sponges and don’t use powder puffs.

12. Get a physical exfoliant like a sponge because it’s gentle.

13. Wear SPF because you should anyway but also because sometimes the sun can darken the blemishes and leave your skin with scars and hyper pigmentation.

14. Salicylic Acid should be in your products. This is dehydrating so remember to use other products that will replenish water loss. (see #3)

15. Be gentle. You don’t have to scrub hard or a lot to get results. Hopefully you are using effective products so that they can do all the work for you.

16. Have patience and know that it will not go away in a day or even a week. Avoid buying anything that tells you differently.

18. Book a consultation and/or facial with me. I can help! Book Here!!

Shop Acne Products:

www.PSBLounge.com

Tomorrow- Products to Avoid and Why

Peels, Peels, Peels. Let’s Change Your Skin!

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Updated: October 2017

I LOVE Peels! The season is here so book your series now and let’s get started!!

A chemical peel is a skin-resurfacing procedure. There is little to no downtime (minimal flaking) and the results are amazing!

Benefits: Smoother, Younger Looking Skin  ~Helps with Fine Lines and Wrinkles ~Hyperpigmentation  ~Texture  ~Acne Scars  ~Large Pores (reducing the appearance)

1. You don’t have to peel with a peel.
2. Visible exfoliation (flaking) is a symptom of the treatment. Everyone is different. Some may flake in certain areas on their face, some may flake all over and some may not flake at all.
3. Cellular change takes place in the epidermis (top layer) and dermis (2nd layer), regardless of the amount of visible flaking.
4. Peels are usually done in a series for best results. One will not give you what you want.


5. I will not do a peel on a new client until we have a consultation and/or a facial. It’s important that we are on the same page as far as what you want, what you can expect and what will actually be done. Plus, I need to see and touch your skin.
6. Home care products are key to producing great results. If you are using products at home that I recommended, then I know exactly how they work together with the peels. This is an important step. Not just for the results but also for the condition of your skin during the series. I’m almost hesitant to even do a series without the client using my products. When you purchase a series and products, it is always a better price.
7. Grape Seed Oil helps tremendously with these peels!

This client has done 2 Peel Series in 5 years and is very consistent with her home care routine, using all products I have recommended.

Book Your Appointment Today!

Chemical Peels. Why They Aren’t Scary!

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They aren’t as scary as you may think. Many women watched the aftermath of Samantha Jones’ chemical peel from Sex and the City and feared that they too would have to wear a dark-colored veil to go out in public. That was a either a drastic peel gone wrong or done strictly for entertainment. (I’m voting for the latter!)

A chemical peel is a skin-resurfacing procedure in which a chemical solution is applied to skin to peel away the top layers. The skin that grows back after a chemical peel is smoother and younger looking. They can help with fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, texture, acne scars and large pores (reducing the appearance of both).

Chemical peels can be done at different depths- light, medium or deep- depending on your desired results. Each type of chemical peels uses a different chemical solution. Deeper chemical peels produce more dramatic results, but can also involve longer recovery times.

Things To Know…

1. You don’t have to peel with a peel.

2. Visible exfoliation (flaking) is a symptom of the treatment. Everyone is different. Some may flake in certain areas on their face, some may flake all over and some may not flake at all.

3. Cellular change takes place in the epidermis (top layer) and dermis (2nd layer), regardless of the amount of visible flaking.

4. Peels are usually done in a series for best results. One will not give you what you want.

5. Consultation and/or a facial must be done before a peel. I will not do a peel on a new client. It’s important that we are on the same page as far as what you want, what you can expect and what will actually be done. Plus, I need to see and touch your skin. This is also when we will discuss the series and figure out chemical peel is best for you.

6. Home care products are key to producing great results. If you are using products at home that I recommended, then I know exactly how they work together with the peels. This is an important step. Not just for the results but also for the condition of your skin during the series. I’m almost hesitant to even do a series without the client using my products. When you purchase a series and products, it is always a better price. 🙂

Book an Appointment Today!

Chemical Peel Series are only performed from October to May but can vary due to weather