The Truth About Anti-Aging Products

Updated: July 2017

We all want to fight the signs of aging and so we go to the malls, our Estheticians and Dermatologists, hoping they will have the answer, maybe even the cure for our wrinkles. From fighting free radicals to stimulating skin’s natural collagen production, anti-aging products make enticing promises.

Do they work? That’s what we want to know, right? Below I have listed 4 commonly listed ingredients and some evidence on whether they actually play an effect on your skin.

Peptides

As we age our skin gets thinner, loses fat and starts to sag and develop fine lines and wrinkles. We produce less collagen and elastin to keep our skin firm and plump. Oh my gosh!

Peptides are small proteins that help stimulate new cells to grow and to help skin cells to heal.

Scientists are still not sure how beneficial these actually are because of the size of the molecule. They are rather large and that makes it more difficult to deeply penetrate the skin. They can, however, do some good in a moisturizer and serum. This way they can hydrate the skin and make lines less noticeable. Whether they reduce wrinkles, the jury is still out.

Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHA’s)

Examples are glycolic, lactic and citric acids which are natural ingredients that come from fruits and milk sugars. They are great for exfoliation because they get rid of dead skin cells, allowing new cells to grow.

Each acid does something different for the skin. Lactic Acid (comes from sour milk) removes the dead skin cells so this will have a brightening effect. Glycolic Acid (comes from sugar cane) helps reduce fine lines and wrinkles which can make skin look smoother and tighter.

Retinols

A natural form of Vitamin A, this boosts the thickness and elasticity of the skin therefore reducing the signs of wrinkles.

There is an abundant amount of evidence to support that retinol works! Finding it in the right products is the tricky part because you need to have enough to get results. Most over-the-counter products cannot put enough retinol in them to give you the benefits you need. This Retinol Serum is amazing and when used correctly, can do great things for the skin.

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Antioxidants

Help fight cell damage from free radicals, which are molecules that could injure cells and increase inflammation.

There are many antioxidants that are effective, however, the formulation is the most critical. Vitamins C and E are the most commonly used and time-tested.

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Read This if You Use a Clarisonic!

Updated: October 2017

I used to recommend the Clarisonic. I still think there are a lot of benefits to using a facial brush but now that I have found Konjac Sponges, I don’t find the facial brush as necessary. Exfoliating your skin is extremely important and I have often written and spoken about it. I have also said that you should not over-exfoliate because that can be damaging to the skin.

I now want to provide you with even more information on exfoliating and the Clarisonic.

1. This brush should definitely not be used every morning and night. That is way too much especially if you are using other exfoliating items in your routine like a scrub or glycolic acid.

2. Too much exfoliation can cause dryness because it allows moisture to leave the cells more easily. Leaving you more dehydrated. This brush (or any brush) should be considered when you think about your exfoliation schedule.

3. When you exfoliate your skin, we call that a form of trauma. That is a good thing…occasionally. Exfoliation causes trauma which then puts your skin in repair mode and stimulates cellular regeneration. If you over-exfoliate, you can trigger premature aging. The opposite of what everyone wants!

4. Aggressive exfoliation can cause inflammation (even if you don’t see it). Chronic and prolonged inflammation is a major cause of aging and also bad for acne.

5. The Clarisonic (or any facial brush, harsh wash cloths, facial scrubs) is considered a physical exfoliant and if your skin is extremely reactive to stimulation, it’s important to be more gentle so that you don’t cause post-inflammatory hyper pigmentation. Those who are prone to discoloration and skin of color should be extra cautious!

6. Sometimes the Clarisonic is just too much stimulation for your skin and it will cause breakouts. If this is you, don’t wait for your skin to get used to it. Stop using it! Everyone is different and it may not work for you. I am one of those people.

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My recommendation-

I will give just a general exfoliation schedule but this could be different for your skin type. Contact me for a consultation and we can discuss your specific needs

Glycolic Acid is my favorite form of chemical exfoliation to use at home. Skin Scripts Glycolic Cleanser is great. You feel a tingle but it’s effective! Use this about 2-3x a week. Pm only.

For your physical exfoliation, choose either a scrub (Skin Script Retinol Scrub is amazing!) or the Konjac Sponge (inexpensive replacement for a facial brush). The Retinol Scrub should be used about 2-3 times a week and the Konjoac Sponge can be used every other night. Pm only.

The chemical exfoliant (glycolic acid) will dissolve the dead skin and the physical exfoliant (sponge, brush or scrub) will lift off the dead skin. Different but both are necessary!

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Beta Acid- Get Rid of Acne!

The American Academy of Dermatology currently recognizes Salicylic Acid (Beta Acid) as one of the most effective agents available for acne skin by significantly reducing build up of dead skin cells through a gentle exfoliation process. Beta Acid used in conjunction with Le Mieux patent pending ingredient is a potent tool to achieve dramatic clearing of acne lesions and prevent changes within the follicle associated with the acne process.

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Are you having trouble with breakouts? Most topical treatments only work on the surface, temporarily getting rid of the problem. You need something that will get under the skin and kill the bacteria and infection so it goes away for good! And, it’s oil soluble, meaning it can dissolve into oil-clogged pores to remove buildup. I love this product because it is effective and easy to use. Great for cystic acne too!

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The Pierced Nose

One of the biggest skin issues I think I hear about today is large pores. People want to know how to make them smaller, less visible, etc. Well, I have some bad news for you…it is not possible. Your pores are your pores. That is why it is so important to use the right products for your skin, and to properly exfoliate your skin. These will help keep your pores clean. The bacteria, dead skin and oil is what enlarges them.

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So if this is a concern of yours, I would avoid getting your nose pierced. It is a large pore that will never go away. It is actually larger than your regular pores too. Makeup will get stuck in it…I’ve seen it! Is this something you want when you’re 40?

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What is this on my face??

Maybe it’s a pimple but could it be a whitehead? Do you know the difference? Most people don’t so I’m going to clear it up for you. If you have a weak stomach and don’t like to read about different types of pimples, don’t keep reading! 🙂

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Blackheads– These are formed when oil and dead skin are clogged in a pore and then when exposed to air, it oxidizes and turns to black.

Whiteheads– Probably the most misunderstood but they look like small, white hard bumps. Another name for these is “milia”. They are normally found under the eyes but can be anywhere on the face. Stubborn and difficult to remove but hydration and exfoliation is usually key.

Pimples (papules)- Pimples are pink to slightly red bumps with a soft white surface filled with fluid and oil.

Large Pimples (pustules)- When pimples become large, engorged, and swollen, a papule has become a pustule.

Cysts and Nodules (deep, painful pimples)- Cysts and nodules are the largest, most painful, and most difficult type of acne to treat. A cyst does not always look like a pimple; it can be just a large red swollen lump. If left untreated, they almost always lead to scarring because the cysts are in the deeper layers of the skin.

Hopefully this helped clear some things up for you.

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Enzymes and Their Benefits

ENZYMES!!!

Glowing skin. Isn’t that what we all want? A good home care regimen with monthly enzymatic facials will do the trick. As we age, the natural exfoliation slows down, which leads to a buildup of dead skin cells. Fine lines, uneven skin tone and sometimes acne are the results of this buildup. Fruit enzymes strengthen the natural exfoliation process which will reveal new and healthy skin cells.

Fruit contains natural enzymes, and for most skin types, they are safe to use. Enzymatic fruits, such as papaya and pumpkin, provide both antioxidant nutrition and exfoliation to the skin when mixed with other fruits such as lemon, pomegranate, blueberry and kiwi. And since the enzymes only dissolve the topmost layer of the epidermis, the skin is not injured so there is no downtime like you might experience with a glycolic peel. You are getting deeper results but still receiving a relaxing treatment.

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FRUITS AND
THEIR SKIN BENEFITS*

Lemon**:
Brightening and anti-aging.
Good for normal to dry skin.

Pomegranate:
Hydrating.
Good for combination skin.

Papaya:
Mild enzymatic action.
Good for all skin types.

Pumpkin:
Excellent exfoliation properties.
Good for acneic skin types.

Blueberry:
Brightening. Good for acneic skin.

Passionfruit:
Firming and anti-aging.
Good for mature skin.

Enzymes are used in every facial at Skin Care by Devyn. They are chosen based on your skin type, needs and concerns. Plus, theses fruit enzymes smell great!

*source, Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa (Dave Waggoner)
**I do not recommend using lemon on your face at home. Lemons are quite strong and can do more damage than good if not used properly.

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