Eye Cream. Should You Use One?

This is a common question and for many years I have said that everyone should use one. I have since changed my mind. I still see the value in them and still recommend them but now there are conditions.

The reason you use an eye cream is to hydrate the eye area to help with dark circles, puffiness and/or fine lines. This is either a preventative or corrective. The eye area is 7x thinner than your face so it does require something different than your moisturizer so there is definitely a benefit to an eye cream.

I stopped recommending them to everyone because if you are using serums in your routine then I don’t think you need another product for your eyes. Of course, this only applies if you are using the correct serums but I make sure that my clients are using the right ones so they aren’t missing out on anything.

The ingredients in the serums are small enough to penetrate into the eye area and give you what you need. I don’t know why an additional cream/serum is needed. I used myself as the guinea pig for this experiment. I stopped using an eye cream to see if I would see a difference and I haven’t. The serums I use are hydrating and will help with fine lines.

Another reason to start using an eye cream is to firm up the area during the day. You can also mix a little eye cream with your under eye concealer to make it less drying.

Now, if you aren’t using serums (or the right ones) then you MUST wear an eye cream/serum. Your eyes age the fastest and are the most abused so protect the area now! I suggest people start as young as 18-20.

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Be Sun Smart This Summer, 2013

Protecting your skin from the sun is more than just wearing sunscreen. Here are some tips to save your skin this summer and keep you looking young!

1. Even if you have damaged skin, it is never too late to start doing everything you can to protect yourself. Having the mentality that you have already done the damage so it doesn’t matter it not the way to go. Things can get worse!

2. Wear sunglasses that block 100% of UVA and UVB rays. It should say it on the label on the glasses. Large-framed, close-ftting frames are best to provide ultimate protection to your eyes. The skin is much thinner therefore it needs to be extra protected. If you can, have an extra pair in your car so that you never are without.

3. Sunscreens that protect against UVB and UVA rays are most important. The sunscreen factor is only for UVB rays. Look for these ingredients to block UVA rays… avobenzone (Parsol 1789), octocrylene, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, oxybenzone and Mexoryl SX (also called ecamsule). Other clues on the bottle? Words like “broad spectrum,” “multispectrum” or “UVA/UVB protection.” Zinc oxide is my favorite and has definitely helped me avoid a burn when I haven’t been able to avoid the sun.

4. Make sure you are applying enough sunscreen. The recommended amount for an adult (average) is 1oz and 1/2oz for a child. Reapply every 2 hours. Or you can do the math… Take the SPF # and multiply (x) that by how long it takes for you to burn (be realistic). Example: 15SPF x 15minutes to burn = 225 (3 hours, 45 minutes) That is how often YOU should reapply.

5. Price doesn’t matter when it comes to sunscreen. Well, I say that with everything. 🙂 Buy cheap when it comes BODY sunscreen because as long as it does the job you need it to do, you’re good! When it comes to your face, buy what is good and healthy for your skin. Not all face sunscreens are created equal and some will feel greasy or heavy or whatever. Find one you like and one that you know you will use everyday.

My favorite! Click to order online.
My favorite!

6. You don’t need anything higher than SPF 30. Everything else is just chemicals.

7. Don’t just stop at sunscreen. Wear a hat, use an umbrella and avoid the sun when it is strongest (10-2).

8. Don’t rely on the labels. “Waterproof”, “water-resistant”, “sweat-proof”, “protects all day.” The meanings vary from bottle to bottle and it doesn’t matter anyway because once you are exposed to the sun, the active ingredients begin to break down.

9. 90% of suns aging effects is incidental and not from laying on the beach all day. The sun can penetrate through windows and more often than not, those who don’t wear sunscreen everyday, have more damage on their left side of their face than their right.

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If you still find yourself with a burn…

TRY THESE TIPS!

Sunscreen, Sun and Your Skin Myths

1. I don’t need to wear an SPF during the winter months or when there is no sun. This is simply not true. UVA means Ultra Violet Aging and those are visible 365 days a year. Protect your skin and always wear it. Even if you are indoors. The sun can penetrate through windows and over time, do more damage than you think.

2. SPF in my makeup is enough. Nope, sorry. 😦 You need seven times the normal amount of foundation and 14 times the normal amount of powder to get the sun protection factor on the label. I really hope you aren’t going to apply that much makeup!

3. Applying once a day is enough. If you are not in the direct sun AT ALL, then this is probably okay for you. Otherwise you need to re-apply every 1-2 hours. More if you are prone to burn. As soon as you are in the sun, the sunscreen starts to breakdown.

4. I put sunscreen on all the obvious areas so I’m good. What about the back of your neck? Ears? Top of your hands? These areas are often neglected but definitely exposed to sun. Skin cancer and skin damage can be anywhere!

5. Lotions, sprays and sticks all work differently. Not really. My advice is to start with a lotion (stick for the face if you want) and get a good base. When you reapply, a spray should be fine once. Then, use a lotion again. I love the convenience of a spray but it is very easy to miss spots.

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I love this sunscreen!
Click on picture to purchase.

6. Expiration dates don’t mean anything. YES THEY DO! If it is expired, STOP using it. No exceptions.

7. A tan is fine as long as I don’t burn. You are still damaging your skin. That is what a tan actually is.

8. My umbrella is enough protection so I don’t need sunscreen. Please don’t believe this! Did you know that sand reflects 17% of UV radiation. That means you are still exposed. It is still important to stay in the shade but wear your sunscreen.

9. The sun always cures my acne (or breakouts). This is a BIG myth. It can be a (very) temporary solution (the sun does kill bacteria) but in reality it causes a buildup of dead skin which leads to clogged pores. And, if you have oily skin, the sun will dry you out, producing even more oil. Viscous cycle.

10. I use SPF100 so I am fully protecting my skin. That isn’t even going to be available anymore because you get 96% protection with SPF30. Anything higher may give you a 4% increase but it will definitely give you more chemicals.

11. The damage is done so it doesn’t matter anymore. It always matters! Wear sunscreen at every age!

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Read this previous blog post on sunscreen…

Be Sun Smart

Read this previous blog post on how to care for sunburned skin…

Sunburn Tips

MLM’s vs The Professional Esthetician

I am often asked about different MLM’s (Multi-Level Marketing Companies or Direct Sales) and I definitely have an opinion about these and sometimes the people that sell the products but I have held back from writing about it. Since it seems to be coming up more and more lately, I have decided to fully address it. This might save me time in the future too. Now I can just refer people to this blog post. 🙂 I was also asked by another Esthetician to write something so here it goes…

Before I was an Esthetician, I was part of an MLM (I will not reveal the name). I believed in the product I was selling. This company had high standards and I was lucky enough to get started at the beginning, which if any of you are familiar with these, is key to making money. I loved skin so I wanted to be part of something I thought was good. I thought I had an edge because I knew a lot about skin since I had been obsessed with it for so many years. I was not the typical stay-at-home mom (yes, I can say that because that is what I encountered) with no previous skin care knowledge.

This was my experience:

1. We had tons of training (available to us and I took advantage of it) on how to sell the product and gain new consultants. New consultants was how you actually made money.

2. I flew to Chicago for a weekend to learn more about the company and how to sell. It was a lot of fun and I learned a lot. Just not about skin care.

3. There were sheets that would tell you what products the client “should” use based on their skin type. Now, most skin care companies do this, even the professional ones, but if you are a professional you understand how to tweak the regimen if necessary for the client. If you are not, then most likely you will not understand that not everyone falls perfectly into a category.

4. There was no training about skin. I was not taught (luckily I knew) what skin needed and why. If something went wrong with a product or someone reacted negatively to a product, I wasn’t taught how to fix it. Again, I knew a lot more about skin so I was able to troubleshoot but if you don’t know anything and someone has a reaction, what do you do?

5. We were supposed to have these parties and just introduce these products. I didn’t like that. I don’t like sales. So, I taught people about skin and then showed them the products and why they were needed. When I did these parties, I was successful. Just selling people stuff doesn’t usually work but if you explain to them WHY, then they will keep up with it.

6. I was not good at this and I lost A LOT of money. I could sell the product but I couldn’t get people to sign up to be consultants and like I said before, that is where you make your money.

I’m not worried that the MLM’s will take over the professional lines because they have been around since the 60’s. Every year another new “miracle” product comes out and people believe it changes their skin until they realize it didn’t. I’m not blaming or faulting these people because we all want better skin and want to believe that this next thing will be the answer. Just remember that OTC products CANNOT do what a professional can. That is a fact! OTC products, for the most part, do not go deep enough into the skin to make a lasting difference. What you are seeing is temporary. If you stop, the damage will come back immediately. OTC also offers no prevention and that is key to anti-aging.

When it comes down to it, I would much rather have a professional help me with my skin because of their experience and knowledge. Personally, I know how much research I do. 🙂

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Nerium Ad- More Reasons to Avoid

I don’t normally repost other blogs but I think this is a great way to explain why Nerium AD is not the answer for your anti-aging needs. I have yet to see a real before and after picture that has produced good results.

Licensed Esthetician Blasts Nerium AD ‘Secret’ Toxic Ingredient

PSBLounge4c

OC Register Interviewed Me!

I got a phone call last week from a writer from the OC Register. He wanted to know if he could interview me about winter skin care and sunscreen. Of course! Why would I ever say no? 🙂

Well, not only did he talk to me but he also wanted to send his photographer to my treatment room so he could get some pictures of me working on a clients. I was worried I wouldn’t be able to find someone who would be willing to be photographed without makeup and on such short notice. Luckily, I found someone! She is amazing and was so kind to help me out.

If you live in Orange County, pick up a copy of the OC Register from November 14th. Front page of the Wellness section!

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Sunscreen Ingredients Explained

Oxybenzone– There has been a lot of controversy about this chemical (as well as others) but the concern isn’t valid. Only a small percentage is even allowed in sunscreen and it is non-toxic, non-phototoxic (which means that it doesn’t cause skin reactions to the skin when exposed to sunlight) and it does not have hormone-disrupting effects.
It is great for blocking out UVB rays and some UVA rays.

Avobenzone– Some have said that this is unstable and cross-reacts with other sunscreen ingredients but the truth is, when any sunscreen ingredient is exposed to sunlight, the chemicals start breaking down. It has been around since 1981 and is the most used sunscreen ingredient in the world. It is safe for topical use and does not have a negative effect on skin cells.

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Retinyl Palmitate– A powerful antioxidant that is actually found naturally in the skin. A combination of vitamin A and palmitic acid, this does not pose a problem to the skin when properly formulated in sunscreens (meaning stabilizing ingredients are included, which is typical). It has also been shown to offer sun protection all by itself.

Titanium Dioxide– A natural ingredient found in nature but is usually polluted with potentially harmful contaminants such as lead and iron so therefore it is purified through a synthetic process. It protects skin from UVA and UVB radiation and is considered to have no risk of skin irritation. And since titanium dioxide is so gentle, it is an excellent sunscreen active for use on sensitive or rosacea-affected skin. It is also great for use around the eyes, as it is highly unlikely to cause stinging in this area.

Zinc Oxide– This is considered to have no risk of skin irritation. It can also be an anti-irritant and potentially an antioxidant. My favorite sunscreen has this ingredient.

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Read Other Posts About Sun Protections

Kids and Sun Protection

Pregnancy and Sun

Kids and Sun Protection

It is never too early to start protecting your children from the sun. Every freckle is sun damage. That is just a fact. Below is some information to help you do what is best for your kids.

General Rules- Always apply sunscreen about 30 minutes before going outside. Water-resistant does not mean you don’t have to reapply again. Every time they come out of the water, apply more sunscreen. I know they won’t like it but they will thank you later!

1. 6 months and younger– Sunscreen is not recommended for infants because their skin is more sensitive. It is extremely important to protect them though. They have very little melanin, the pigment that gives color to skin, eyes and hair and provides some sun protection. This means that infants are more susceptible to sun damage. Protect them with lightweight clothing, shade and keeping them out of the sun (directly and indirectly).

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2. 6-12 months– It is now safe to use sunscreen but their skin is still super sensitive. Sticks for the face are great because they tend to not get into the eyes. Sunscreen hurts when it’s in the eyes!

3. Toddlers and up– Sunscreen, hats, sunglasses. Whatever you can do!

UVA/UVB, Broad-Spectrum is best!

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Sunscreen, Sun and Your Skin, Myths