Month: March 2013

What is this on my face??

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Maybe it’s a pimple but could it be a whitehead? Do you know the difference? Most people don’t so I’m going to clear it up for you. If you have a weak stomach and don’t like to read about different types of pimples, don’t keep reading! 🙂

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Blackheads– These are formed when oil and dead skin are clogged in a pore and then when exposed to air, it oxidizes and turns to black.

Whiteheads– Probably the most misunderstood but they look like small, white hard bumps. Another name for these is “milia”. They are normally found under the eyes but can be anywhere on the face. Stubborn and difficult to remove but hydration and exfoliation is usually key.

Pimples (papules)- Pimples are pink to slightly red bumps with a soft white surface filled with fluid and oil.

Large Pimples (pustules)- When pimples become large, engorged, and swollen, a papule has become a pustule.

Cysts and Nodules (deep, painful pimples)- Cysts and nodules are the largest, most painful, and most difficult type of acne to treat. A cyst does not always look like a pimple; it can be just a large red swollen lump. If left untreated, they almost always lead to scarring because the cysts are in the deeper layers of the skin.

Hopefully this helped clear some things up for you.

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It Smells Good but Is it Safe?

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Fragrances. It seems we either love ’em or we don’t. I don’t. I’ve never purchased a skin care product because it smelled good but I have decided to not purchase one because of the smell. I learned a few years that this actually worked out in my favor. I strongly dislike the smell of lavender (I feel the same way about vanilla) and this is one of the worst fragrances out there. These oils (fragrances) can irritate the skin, especially if you’re sensitive. Beware! Fragrances are generally not healthy for the skin and should be avoided.

The following is an excerpt from Paula Begoun. (pay close attention to the 1st sentence in the 2nd paragraph)

“There is no research showing it (lavender) has any benefit for skin (Sources: Phytotherapy Research, June 2002, pages 301–308). In fact, it can be a skin irritant but there is a conflicting research on just how much of a photosensitizer lavender can be. It appears lavender oil all by itself isn’t a photosensitizer, but when exposed to oxygen (as it would be when applied to your skin), one of it’s fragrant components, linalyl acetate forms substances that lead to allergic contact dermatitis in and out of sunlight (Sources: The New Ideal in Skin Health: Separating Fact from Fiction, Thornfeldt, Carl M.D., Allured Books, 2010, pages 286–287; Contact Dermatitis, January 2008, pages 9–14; Hautarzt, February 2002, pages 93–97; and Contact Dermatitis, August 1999, page 111).

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Research also indicates that other components of lavender, specifically linalool, can be cytotoxic, meaning that topical application causes skin-cell death (Source: Cell Proliferation, June 2004, pages 221–229). Lavender leaves contain camphor, which is known as a skin irritant. Because the fragrance constituents in lavender oil oxidize when exposed to air, lavender oil pro-oxidant. This enhanced oxidation also increases its irritancy on skin (Source: Contact Dermatitis, September 2008, pages 143–150). Lavender oil is the most potent form, and even small amounts of it (0.25% or less) can be problematic. It is a must to avoid in skin-care products, but is fine used as an aromatherapy agent for inhalation or relaxation (Source: Psychiatry Research, February 2007, pages 89–96; and http://www.naturaldatabase.com).”

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Stop the Madness!

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Why do so many cleansers have exfoliating beads in them now? Exfoliating the skin twice a day is not healthy and that is what is happening now. And this is not just in the OTC products, I am also seeing it in professional brands. Are Estheticians seriously recommending to their clients to exfoliate everyday? This is what my new clients are telling me.

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I had a new client come in recently and she is using an exfoliating cleanser, an exfoliating toner with 3 different acids in it, a serum with salicylic acid every other night (yep, it’s a leave-on) and Renova when she feels like she needs it. When does her skin have a chance to rejuvenate? And the worst part is, her skin isn’t reacting well or improving with this routine. Luckily, she is open to change and is letting me switch her products.

Less is usually better.

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Are OTC Skin Care Products Making Our Skin Worse?

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Sometimes I wonder if this is true. Every client that gets a facial from me is asked about their skin care routine. I ask specifically what products and brands are used so I see what the skin care is doing to skin. I’m starting to see a pattern with certain brands that makes me want to tell everyone to STOP using them. I am also seeing a pattern with OTC brands in general. This is why I am questioning whether or not they are purposely trying to hurt our skin so that we have to keep buying more products. When you walk into a Nordstrom or a Target and stare at all their products, it’s overwhelming. How do you choose? How do you know what is right for your skin?

Acne products seem to dry out the skin. Then, you have to buy products that will help the dryness. When does it stop? Why can’t these OTC products just fix our skin without damaging it? Oil-free is not always best. Moisturizers don’t penetrate the skin. Toners should not have alcohol. Do you even know why you use a toner? Dark circles are almost impossible to get rid of because they are usually hereditary. Those white bumps (milia) under your eyes that never go away are there because you’re dehydrated. Do you know how to get the proper hydration to the eye area?

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Yes, I do sell my own professional products but I believe in what I sell and I use it myself. If I could, I would do all of this for free. It kills me what is out there and how much we are all mislead. The amount of money we spend on products that we either don’t ever use or don’t work, is astounding.

So, what do you think? I want to know if you agree with me. I absolutely do not believe it costs a fortune to have good skin but it IS costing us a fortune.

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Salicylic Acid in Foundation?

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I’ve never been a big fan of Clinique. It started in high school when I used their products and they didn’t work for my skin, at all. Then, when I fell in love with skin and began reading about ingredients and different product lines, I finally understood why I didn’t like them. So when I heard about their Acne Solutions Foundation w/ salicylic acid, I had to check it out. I try to keep up with as much stuff regarding to skin as I can but it is impossible to do it, unfortunately. This one got away from me because when I started my research, I found that it has been around since 2010! Yikes!

My first thought about have an ingredient like salicylic acid in a product like foundation, that sits on your skin all day, was that there was no way this was healthy. Now that I have done more reading, I don’t disagree with myself. 🙂

My client, who told me about it, said that she stopped using it because her skin became too dry. That is because that acid dries up all the oil in the skin. Estheticians use it as a chemical peel. Of course you see it in a lot of products these days but not often will you find it in a  daytime product that is a leave-on.

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My biggest problem with this is that people don’t know the long-term damage they are doing to their skin. I can pretty much bet that Clinique is not educating their customers on salicylic acid.

When I read reviews online, people were saying how dry it made their skin, the foundation turned orange mid-day and made their acne worse. I would love to try this out on my skin but I’m on the dry side anyway and don’t suffer from acne or breakouts so I am not a good tester.

Bottom Line: Please avoid this foundation and any other foundation with this ingredient (yes, there are others!). Acne needs to be taken care of with proper skin care products NOT makeup. Come see me if you need guidance. I want to help! 🙂

Another Product Review

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Skin Script Products

Green Tea Cleanser: Makes my skin feel cleansed and refreshed. I love it!
Blemish Pads: These pads are amazing! They diminish any breakouts by the next morning!
Glycolic Cleanser: Deep cleansing that feels so amazing!
Retinol Mask: I use this once a week and I love how great my skin feels right after and the next day. Excellent way to exfoliate!!
Sunscreen: This is a must have for me! Great coverage and feels light on skin. Excellent skin protection!

Diptic

Le Mieux Products

TGF-B Booster Serum: Makes my fine lines diminish!! It makes my skin look and feel so beautiful!!

The products from skincare by Devyn are all so amazing. They have truly transformed my skin. I had problem areas before and now my skin is totally balanced and radiant! Thank you Devyn for introducing me to your amazing line! I am a client for life!

-Sarah, age 35 Miami, Fl

www.SkinCarebyDevyn.com

I HAVE THE BEST CLIENTS!!! 🙂

Let’s Talk About Lips, Ba-by

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I got this article from a fellow Esthetician that she had posted from the International Dermal Institute. I don’t talk about the lips much  so I thought this was interesting. It was written by Emma Hobson.

We often tend to neglect our lips when it comes to facial skin care, except of course for the occasional collagen injection for some. And yet our mouth and lips are so vitally important for an array of reasons, including the ability to make various facial expressions, speaking, and let’s not forget kissing!

Lips and the Aging Process
Without proper care, lips can age faster than other areas of our skin. Think of your lips as a sponge. “When exposed to moisture, they absorb water and plump up. When dehydrated, they dry out and shrink,” explains Bruce Bart, M.D., a dermatologist at Hennepin County Medical Center in Minneapolis. Because our lips are always exposed, they’re prone to dehydration, particularly during the cold, dry, winter months.

A major culprit of premature aging around the mouth is smoking. Besides the damage caused by the toxins in the smoke itself, smokers are more likely to develop lines around the mouth because of the repeated use of the perioral muscles to hold the cigarette. Smoking increases the hits of aging free radicals by about a million per inhalation. Generally, heavy smokers age 10 years earlier than their non-smoking counterparts.

If that’s not enough, smoking decreases the secretion of oestrogen from the ovaries, and it also is thought to make the liver destroy oestrogen supplies (nicotine activates enzymes in the liver that metabolize sex hormones, speeding up the rate at which they are removed from the body), causing possible, early onset of menopause.

Our lips need more moisture and conditioning as we age. The cumulative damage to the lips and the skin resulting from years of overexposure to the sun, cold air and harsh weather pay their toll. The negative effects of the environment frequently result in the drying, chapping, and cracking of the mouth, and there’s increased risk of inflammation, infection and burning sensations. Greater care of your lips can reverse the signs of aging and trauma.

Is it Possible to Reduce the Effects of Environmental Damage and Aging on the Lips?
Using a lip care product with effective moisturizers and sunscreen (SPF 15+) can help reduce the effects of two of the main contributors to an aged appearance: sun damage and moisture loss. Since the lips have little or no melanin, they have little or no protection from the damaging effects of UV rays, which is why the lips can prematurely age as well as contract skin cancer.

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Can you Exfoliate the Lips?

Yes, but be gentle and use mild exfoliants such as Rice Bran Powder. Never over-exfoliate – once per week max. Dr. Monte Meltzer, Chief of Dermatology at Union Memorial Hospital in Baltimore states “Some lip products contain salicylic acid, an ingredient of unproven safety when applied to lips. Lips are not hyperkeratotic skin, when salicylic acid is applied to the lips, it can erode through the outer stratum corneum to damage living skin layers beneath.”

How do Lip Plumpers/Primers Work?
There is an array of ingredients used for lip plumping; a common one is Red Chili. They work by causing localized skin irritation, whereby the lips become irritated and swell. But keep in mind that where there is inflammation, there is potential for accelerated aging.

Ingredients to look for:

  • Vitamin E
  • Cocoa Seed Butter
  • Hyaluronic Acid
  • Palmitoyl Oligopeptide
  • Arginine/ Lysine Polypeptide
  • Avocado Oil
  • Rice Bran Oil
  • Wheat Germ Oil
  • Shea Butter

Ingredients to avoid:

  • Artificial fragrance
  • Isopropyl Esters (Myristate, Palmitate, Lanolate and Linoleate)
  • Myristyl Lactate
  • Sweet Almond Oil
  • Coconut Oil
  • Sesame Oil
  • Lanolin Wax (Lanolin Acid)
  • Red D&C Dyes
  • Petrolem Jelly
  • Baby Oil

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Don’t Let Your Hands Reveal Your True Age

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I tell all my clients that whatever you do to your face, you should also do to your neck, chest and hands. They are so often neglected but they will show your age so quickly. Sunscreen is super important! It isn’t necessary to cleanse your hands the same way but all those serums and moisturizers will keep your hands hydrated and protected. It’s a simple step and will make a huge difference! Wearing gloves while washing dishes is a must for hand models so maybe we should follow that rule too. 🙂

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Your nails can also be a sign of aging. I’m definitely not an expert in this area but fungus, yellowing and dark spots are not attractive and things you will not find on younger people. (these can also be a sign of poor health so get this checked out next time you’re at the doctor) Pay for the extra nail treatments when you get your manicures. If you don’t want to spend the money then do the extras at home. Hydrate your cuticles (try applying some oil and vaseline- then wrap in socks).

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Skin Care for the Lazy Teen

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Teenagers are lazy. At least when it comes to their skin. This is especially true for boys. Moms tell me all the time and I know for a fact that a lot of boys (and men) assume that the shampoo falling down their face is enough to clean their skin. It’s not! Below are two products they can use to properly cleanse and moisturize their skin. Please remember that this is the absolute bare minimum. Most people need a couple more products for a complete routine but again, they are lazy. We have to make it easy for them and this is one way to do it. Plus, it’s affordable! If you are unsure if this is the right routine for you or your teen, please contact me.

 

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Green Tea Cleanser $27

This green tea citrus cleanser contains grapefruit, lemon and yucca to remove excess oils as the green tea antioxidants calm the skin and bring it new life giving it a radiant glow. Lemon deep cleans while yucca soothes the skin.

Green Tea Citrus Cleanser Benefits:

  • Clarifies and removes excess oils
  • Maintains healthy cell function
  • Protects from bacterial attacks
  • Provides cellular protection from free radicals
  • Inhibits inflammation
  • Soothes and restores skin balance

 

 

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Light Aloe Moisturizer  $16.50

 

This ultra light moisturizer hydrates and protects oily and blemished skin. It is very important to lightly hydrate even oily skin. Lack of hydration will result in excess production from the oil glands.

 

Light Aloe Moisturizer Benefits:

 

  • Improves surface hydration
  • Encourages proper moisture levels
  • Normalizes water / oil balance
  • Soothing and Calming
  • Improves Skin Function

 

 

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