The Truth About Anti-Aging Products

Updated: July 2017

We all want to fight the signs of aging and so we go to the malls, our Estheticians and Dermatologists, hoping they will have the answer, maybe even the cure for our wrinkles. From fighting free radicals to stimulating skin’s natural collagen production, anti-aging products make enticing promises.

Do they work? That’s what we want to know, right? Below I have listed 4 commonly listed ingredients and some evidence on whether they actually play an effect on your skin.

Peptides

As we age our skin gets thinner, loses fat and starts to sag and develop fine lines and wrinkles. We produce less collagen and elastin to keep our skin firm and plump. Oh my gosh!

Peptides are small proteins that help stimulate new cells to grow and to help skin cells to heal.

Scientists are still not sure how beneficial these actually are because of the size of the molecule. They are rather large and that makes it more difficult to deeply penetrate the skin. They can, however, do some good in a moisturizer and serum. This way they can hydrate the skin and make lines less noticeable. Whether they reduce wrinkles, the jury is still out.

Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHA’s)

Examples are glycolic, lactic and citric acids which are natural ingredients that come from fruits and milk sugars. They are great for exfoliation because they get rid of dead skin cells, allowing new cells to grow.

Each acid does something different for the skin. Lactic Acid (comes from sour milk) removes the dead skin cells so this will have a brightening effect. Glycolic Acid (comes from sugar cane) helps reduce fine lines and wrinkles which can make skin look smoother and tighter.

Retinols

A natural form of Vitamin A, this boosts the thickness and elasticity of the skin therefore reducing the signs of wrinkles.

There is an abundant amount of evidence to support that retinol works! Finding it in the right products is the tricky part because you need to have enough to get results. Most over-the-counter products cannot put enough retinol in them to give you the benefits you need. This Retinol Serum is amazing and when used correctly, can do great things for the skin.

retinol-serum

Antioxidants

Help fight cell damage from free radicals, which are molecules that could injure cells and increase inflammation.

There are many antioxidants that are effective, however, the formulation is the most critical. Vitamins C and E are the most commonly used and time-tested.

www.PSBLounge.com

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Last but Certainly Not Least…

These are just the miscellaneous products that I didn’t mention in previous product posts.

Blemish Spot Treatment– This blemish spot treatment rapidly dries each blemish and encourages healing.
Soothes skin irritation
Reduces inflammation and redness
Clarifies and heals breakouts
Assists in boosting hydrating levels
Limits pigmentation and scarring

O2 Calming Gel– This ultimate hydrating skin gel calms, soothes and moisturizes dehydrated and irritated skin with natural organic botanical extracts. It is highly recommended as a comforting massage and ultrasound gel, combining the latest technology with organic natural ingredients which enhance a variety of biological functions resulting in added benefits. The calming gel immediately relieves burning, stinging, redness as well as irritated skin. It is also recommended as an excellent after shave gel that delivers instant and lasting comfort from shave irritation.

SS Sheer Protection SPF30– This is a light cream, sheer feeling sunblock that provides both UVA/UVB protection for all skin types.
Provides UVA and UVB sun protection
Ideal for daily wear
Lightly moisturizes and protects the skin

Cotton Squares– Absorbent towels will suck up expensive skin care. These are less absorbent on purpose! 200 per pack

Konjac Sponge– Bestselling 100% Pure Konjac Sponge deeply cleanses, removes blackheads and gently exfoliates the skin. The unique net like structure of the vegetable fibres helps to stimulate blood flow and promote skin cell renewal.
Gently Exfoliates
Deeply Cleanses
Refines Pores
Cleanses and Exfoliates the Delicate Eye Area
Removes Water Based Make-Up
Use With or Without Cleanser
Leaves Skin Radiant & Rejuvenated
Suitable for Sensitive Skin
100% Natural, Colouring & Additive Free
Silky Soft When Wet
pH balancing

GrandeLash Serum– GrandeLASH-MD is a TOP SELLING PRODUCT that is taking the beauty industry by storm! If you want the appearance of spectacular long lashes or full eyebrows naturally, GrandeLASH-MD is the right product for you. This SAFE and PROVEN formula will help to improve the appearance of your eyelashes and eyebrows in LENGTH, FULLNESS, THICKNESS and DARKNESS in only 4 to 8 weeks.

Grande Mascara– FEATURES
LASH OUT, give your lashes a boost with Grande Mascara!
Volumized, Extended, Lifted lashes
Wide-Eye Effect
Flirtatious lash fringe for a bold, curved and clump-free finish
Precise, separated corner and bottom lashes
Instant extreme volume & length
Helps maintain the effect of GrandeLASH-md

Grande Brow– A tinted brush-on brow gel crafted in Italy & infused with fibers and peptides; adheres to even the finest brow hairs, leaving them fuller and more defined with a single application. Our long-wear formula evenly coats the brows with a natural tint while filling in sparse areas, allowing you to sculpt and define your arches for a bold brow look that lasts all day. Available in a dark gel and a light gel.

Masks!

Masks. I think this is probably the skin care product that people love to do the most. It’s something fun to do on a girl’s night or even when we just want to have a glass of wine and unwind. At the same time, we put a lot of expectations into a mask. We want them to smooth out our wrinkles and clear up our acne. I wish they could do those things! What they should NOT do is make our skin look and feel dehydrated or make us breakout. What they can do is improve the skin and be a great addition to your regular skin care routine.

Here are some tips to get the most out of your mask, whatever you decide to use.

  • Make sure your skin is clean and makeup free. Don’t forget toner.
  • You can still apply your serums under a creamy mask. The mask will actually push and lock the serums into the skin. It’s a great addition!
  • Be relaxed. Your skin will benefit the most when you are relaxing. So yes, you can do laundry or cook dinner or whatever while wearing a mask but if you can, try to sit and do nothing. Read a book, watch tv, catch up with a friend, etc.
  • Sheet masks can usually be used twice, at least the ones I use and recommend.
  • Once a week is enough for masks.

So let’s talk about the masks that I love…

LM Hyaluronic Shea Mask– Oh my gosh, this is such a great mask! It’s silky and creamy and you can immediately feel your skin drinking in the hydration. And what is so great about this one is that you can use it all over. I use it on my clients hands for a hand treatment during a facial. Deep conditioning cream mask binds moisture to prevent water loss, dryness, and roughness while improving elasticity. Nourishing and rejuvenating blend of soothing oils, hyaluronic acid, and shea butter provides intensive, long-lasting hydration for dry, damaged, or mature skin.

Great for the face, neck, chest, hands and feet!

LM Icy Revitalizing Mask– This is a clay mask but not your typical clay mask that makes your skin feel tight and dry when you remove it. You can also add a little of this O2 Calming Gel to the mask to make it feel even better on the skin. Refreshing, stimulating clay mask features 3 exotic clays and 8 botanical extracts to unclog pores and rebalance oily skin. Soothes irritation, inflammation, and redness, leaving skin moisturized and velvety soft. Ideal for acne-prone or sensitive skin.

Travel Size

 

LM Moisture Infusion Mask– If you’re feeling dry, this is the mask for you. If you want a pick-me-up, this is the mask for you. This serum-infused mask soothes and hydrates dry, sensitive, and stressed skin, brightens dull complexions, and minimizes the appearance of expression lines. Features 3 anti-aging peptides, the most stable form of Vitamin C (MAP ), 7 botanical extracts, and marine collagen to promote collagen synthesis for smooth, radiant skin. Ideal after microdermabrasion procedures. Contains 4 masks and each one can usually be used at least twice!

LM Bio-Cell Mask– When I was first introduced to this mask, I was told that it’s great for fine lines and wrinkles and will make you look younger. The cynic that I am didn’t believe it so I had to experiment for myself. I used it 3 different people and only put it on half the face and couldn’t believe the results. It really did soften the imperfections that come with aging! I love this mask for a date night or any special night. But of course you can also use it just for you! Serum-saturated, marine collagen mask incorporates peptide technology in an advanced microencapsulation delivery system for unparalleled results. Features 2 potent peptides, freeze-dried marine collagen, powerful antioxidants, Vitamin C (MAP), and 8 botanical extracts to hydrate, brighten, and improve the appearance of sagging facial contours.
Contains 4 masks and each one can usually be used at least twice!

LM TGF Eye Firming Mask– Sometimes our eyes just need a lift and these eye masks will do that for you. This cooling eye mask dramatically minimizes the appearance of expression lines, dark circles, and puffiness around the eyes. Features 3 potent peptides, red and green algae extracts, and hyaluronic acid in a sophisticated micro-delivery system to smooth, brighten, and firm the eye areas while stimulating collagen synthesis. And guess what? You can use these around your mouth too!
Contains 4 eye masks.

Start Shopping!

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What is Your Season?

My mom has always been into wearing her right colors. And by right colors, I mean the colors that look best on her. She says that she instinctively knew what looked good.

Each person is a season. Winter, Spring, Summer or Autumn. Each season has a palette of colors that look best on us.  A lot of people are naturally drawn to the colors that look best on them and don’t know it.

Winter
Summer

 

 

 

 

 

Autumn
Spring

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Growing up my siblings and I always wore our colors. My mom taught us from day one what was best for us. Between the 5 of us, we are 2 winters, 2 autumns and a spring. I passed my knowledge about colors to my friends and most didn’t care. They thought I was crazy and that everyone should have a little black dress in their closet. My response was always…not if you don’t look good in it!

I’m a Winter. Since I’ve always known it, I’m not sure if I’m drawn to my colors because I already know what works or if it’s instinct like my mom. It doesn’t matter though. You will never see me out of my color palette. Same with my siblings. We never strayed. And now most of my nieces and nephews (all except 2 and I have 11) wear their right colors.

We aren’t crazy, I promise. Here is why. Everyone looks better when they are wearing their colors. That is simply a fact. It’s a very easy way to improve your appearance without effort. The other side of it is when you wear the wrong colors, it brings out the imperfections in your skin. The things you are trying to hide with makeup, like redness.

One of my sisters and I rarely wear makeup. If we also wore the wrong colors, we would be disasters. We are pretty much relying on the colors of our clothes to do all the work. Well, that and great skin care products!

Now, if you still insist that you must wear that little black dress…you can. Get a style that the color isn’t close to your face. Wear a sweater or scarf or whatever works with the outfit that fits in YOUR color palette. That way you get the dress but still look good!

Red is in my palette. A true red. I don’t feel comfortable in that color because it’s eye-catching and I like to blend in rather than stand out. I have noticed over the years that a lot of people who don’t look good in red, will be the ones who wear it. It’s not as eye-catching on someone who is a spring, for example. Springs can wear red, but an orange-red is what is best.

So how do you figure out what season you are? I will also post pics of each seasons color palettes on my blog and also some examples of women wearing the right vs the wrong color. Here are a couple of ways to break it down first…

  1. Do you look better in silver or gold jewelry?
    1. Silver- Summer and Winter
    2. Gold- Spring and Autumn
  2. Find different (solid) colors in your closet and hold them up to your face. Make sure you’re in good lighting. What looks best? For me as a Winter, if I hold up an orange shirt, it’s going to make me look blah and probably a little sickly. If I hold up a black shirt, all of sudden my skin looks great again. Ask a friend if you’re not sure. Shades of white are good to use too. Winters can wear pure white, whereas a spring would wear ivory. You want the colors you wear to warm you up, not make you look pale.
  3. You can also pay attention to what people compliment you on. If you every time you wear a certain blue shirt and people say you look good, then find out what color blue that season is and go from there. I’ve said it about makeup. You want someone to compliment you on your face, not how pretty your eyeshadow is. It works with clothes too. You want someone to look at you and say how pretty you look rather than tell you that you’re wearing a pretty shirt. Not that you can’t do both, but wouldn’t you rather look good than have a pretty top?

Look how much redness is in her “before” pic!

 

Exfoliating Products

What is exfoliation? It is the removal of surface dry skin cells. How do you know if you need to do it? Everyone needs to but it then becomes a question of how often and what should be used. This will all be discussed. And I want to be clear that my recommendations are in general terms since everyone really is different.

Why should you exfoliate? It’s considered a very important technique to achieving healthy and glowing skin. Sometimes when I perform a facial, I am surprised at the immediate difference in the skin after exfoliating.

Basics of exfoliation. We only want to exfoliate at night. When you do it in the morning, you make your skin more vulnerable to the sun but also, the products that are used at night are usually (supposed to be) products to help repair the skin and stimulate cellular regeneration. Freshly exfoliated skin will take in these ingredients much better.

And generally speaking, you want to exfoliate about 3-4 times a week. This number changes based on your skin and skin needs and also what you want accomplished.

Here are some things that can happen if you exfoliate daily…

  1. Flaking, redness and underlying inflammation of the skin because the moisture barrier is damaged.
  2. Dryness and dehydration
  3. Sometimes we do damage that cannot be seen. You can age the skin prematurely when there is chronic inflammation
  4. You can destroy healthy cells
  5. The more you exfoliate the more you are stimulating melanin activity and that can result in hyperpigmentation
  6. Products that used to work for you may not anymore because you have stripped and irritated the skin

There are 2 types of exfoliation. Physical and Chemical. A physical exfoliate is a facial brush, facial sponge, scrub, washcloth or anything similar that will lift off dead skin and a chemical exfoliate dissolves the dead skin and examples of that is a glycolic acid or salicylic acid.

As always for the product talk episode, I will discuss the products I use and retail.

SS Retinol 2% Exfoliating Scrub– This scrub is a powerful cellular turnover scrub with Retinol (Vitamin A) and jojoba beads to clean, soothe and polish the skin. The retinol encourages the breakup of blackheads and clogged pores, jojoba beads gently exfoliate dead skin cells, while kojic lightens age spots and blemishes left from scars. I love this one because it doubles as a mask. I always tell my clients to use it in the shower. Cleanse your face, apply the scrub and let it sit for about 10 minutes. The steam from the shower will help push the ingredients into the skin (kind of like when estheticians use steam during a facial). Shave your legs, wash your body or whatever while the mask does its job and then rinse off. Of course you don’t have to do it this way.
Benefits:
Lessens Visible Aging
Lightens Discolorations
Provides Chemical and Physical Exfoliation
Promotes Collagen Synthesis
Assists in Healing and Rejuvenating

SS Raspberry Refining Scrub– Polish and energize the skin with the antioxidants raspberry and marionberry which will brighten skin and provide anti-inflammatory-like benefits to soothe skin irritations. Jojoba beads and blue corn meal gently exfoliate to remove surface build-up provides physical exfoliation while exfoliating and lightening ingredients work in tandem to promote a clear, healthy skin tone. For all skin types as a mechanical exfoliation. Safe for pregnant and breast-feeding women. I like to always be honest with you so I’m going to tell you that this is not my favorite scrub. I have clients that love it and it’s safe during pregnancy, which is nice to have an alternative. There is nothing wrong with it but it’s just not my go-to.

SS Glycolic and Retinol Pads– These pads break up surface oil to refine pores and reveal fresh, healthy skin. Kojic and arbutin lighten sun spots and scars left from blemishes. I’ve talked about these on other episodes. These are really great because they do so many things. Here’s the thing…if you’re looking to lighten your skin and make a change, these will do it. Plus, they can be used on your neck, chest, hands, feet and elbows.
Benefits:
Provides surface renewal and resurfacing
Purges and exfoliates
Removes oil and debris
Prevents future breakouts
Assists in Anti-wrinkle actions
Lightens pigmentation spots
Improves Skin Function

Great for lightening the skin!

SS Beta Carotene/Papain Renewal Serum– Yes, this is a serum but it’s also considered a form of exfoliation. With aloe and olive. A mild exfoliation serum for sensitive skin. Beta carotene is a precursor to Vitamin A; papain is an enzyme derived from papayas. May be used on pregnant or lactating women which is why I retail this one and why it’s so great. When you’re pregnant, you’re very limited on what you can use and this helps.

Benefits:

Improves Skin Barrier Integrity by Balancing Surface Lipids

Exfoliates to Reduce Visible Wrinkles

Anti-Inflammatory

LM Beta Acid– The American Academy of Dermatology currently recognizes Salicylic Acid (Beta Acid) as one of the most effective agents available for acne skin by significantly reducing build up of dead skin cells through a gentle exfoliation process. You actually apply this at night and leave it on. It has done amazing things for my clients. When it comes to acne you really do need something strong that will actually go deep into the skin and kill the bacteria. Salicylic is my favorite because it’s more gentle. It’s under exfoliation because it’s an acid and will help exfoliate the skin.

LM Vita-C Clear Skin Pad– Gentle micro-peel exfoliates and prepares the epidermal cell layers for faster and more effective penetration of other nutrients. Natural Vitamin C is infused within the soft fabric to help to brighten skin for a natural glow. These are definitely different than the Glycolic/Retinol Pads because first of all, they contain vitamin c but also because these pads are more about setting the skin up for the serums you apply after. And of course, they do exfoliate the skin.

LM Perfect Renewal System– This skin-perfecting system clears congested pores, improves uneven skin tone, and reduces the appearance of fine lines and blemishes. Features mandelic acid to enhance cellular turnover, while vitamin B, hyaluronic acid, and alpha-arbutin promote a smooth, radiant complexion. WHAT DOES IT DO? Clears congested pores and excess oil without causing dryness. Improves uneven tone and texture. Helps smooth out fine lines. Reduces the appearance of blemishes, including back acne. Restores radiant glow. These are closer to the Glycolic/Retinol Pads so I would choose one over the other, not both. I do love both though. These are probably a little bit more gentle and better for my sensitive skin. But to be honest, I use both and just switch when I run out of one. These have hyaluronic acid and we all know how great that is for the skin.

5% Glyco Polymer Solution– This polymerized micro-peel lightly exfoliates the skin with glycolic and lactic acids to refine uneven texture, clear and tighten pores, and minimize the appearance of fine lines. Features a marine enzyme known to preserve the skin’s collagen network, plus soothing botanical extracts that promote a smooth, healthy complexion with fewer breakouts. Wanna know why I sell this one? For Keratosis Pilaris or chicken skin. It’s those little red bumps that people get on the back of their arms. This is really great for getting rid of them. Of course it can be used on the face too but it’s not my first choice.

LM Ultrasonic Spatula– I love this tool. I talked about this on my episode about at-home tools. This is one of 2 devices that I retail and my most favorite. I actually use it in almost every facial. It gently exfoliates and helps lift clogged pores. Makes extractions easier during a facial. It’s so great for home use because you can’t really over use it, as most tend to do with devices. It’s like a little earthquake for the skin…shakes things up! And when you flip it over, it can help infuse your serums deeper into the skin.

Chemical Peels. Make a Difference in Your Skin.

All of my clients know that peel season is my favorite season. I love the results and I love being able to make my clients happy with their skin again. I would do these year round if I could but the weather and the sun limits me. But now that we are here, let’s me tell why I love them so much.

  1. Chemical peels can make your skin and your skin care products work better– The acid (there are many different ones) lifts dead skin and triggers a chain reaction. Once that top layer is gone, signals are then sent to the living cells below to multiply and move up, increase collagen production and act younger. Skin care products can now work even better because there are no dead skin cells to stop them.
  2. Fully Customized Peels– Slow and steady wins the race. My series is done over 9 weeks. That is 7 peels. I will go as strong as your skin allows and tolerates. I want you to get the best results so whatever I can do that makes sense, I will do. Since it’s done over a period of time, I don’t need to hit your skin super hard. We can increase as we go along. Flaking is normal but you can still live your life and be out in the world.
  3. Acne and Acne Scars– Getting a peel every week doesn’t allow bacteria to hang around. Yes, you can still get breakouts (skin is purging) but they usually get better as the peels go on. Acne scars will also improve. The healthier your skin, the better it looks.
  4. Melasma is better treated with peels than lasers- This is a no-fun issue that many women have to deal with at some point. Hormones are to blame. The sun and heat make it worse. Chemical peels can lighten the dark skin in a very different way than lasers which is why often women will find the melasma returns after a few weeks. When done correctly and in conjunction with at-home care, the peels will usually lift the melasma.
  5. I strongly encourage my clients to purchase products at home- I don’t really even want to do a series without the products because clients just won’t get the results they want. Will you see a change? Yes. Will it last and make a big difference? Probably not. When I do the peel, it sets your skin up to be ready to get the good ingredients on it. The ingredients that will lighten your skin, continue to kill bacteria, help smooth your skin and make it softer. If you’re going to spend the money, you might as well do it right. This also sets up my clients to see what the products can really do and gets them on a great routine, that becomes a habit.

Purchase your series by February 16th and you will receive a FREE DermaRed LED or FREE Ultrasonic Spatula (while supplies last).

DermaRed LED 

What is it?

4-in-1 youth-activating system provides four technologically superior treatments into one tool to minimize the appearance of lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone and elasticity, deep cleanse pores, and infuse waterbased treatments for firmer, smoother, more lifted and radiant-looking skin. LED red light, ultrasonic waves, and positive and negative ions visibly help reverse signs of prematurely aging skin after every treatment.

What does it do?

  • LED red light airbrushes away the appearance of lines and wrinkles and improves the look of age spots and photo damage
  • Ultrasonic waves stimulate blood circulation and improve the appearance of skin tone and texture
  • Positive ions deep cleanse pores of excess oil and impurities
  • Negative ions accelerate the absorption of serums and other water-based skincare products

Ultrasonic Spatula 

Professional strength ultrasonic waves gently cleanse, exfoliate, extract, and infuse to reveal smoother, brighter, and perfect-looking skin.

Micro-massage action provides 28,000 ultrasonic vibrations per second to gently cleanse, tone, and stimulate the skin while accelerating the absorption of serums and gels, and other water-based products. In fact, any skincare product that is not oil-based will provide better results with the Skin Perfecter.

Plus, the Skin Perfecter is easy to use and never requires brushes, cartridges, or discs.

 

This client first came to me when she was pregnant. After she was done breast-feeding, we started a chemical peel series. 5 years later, her skin is healthy. Her biggest concern was that the acne would leave her scarred.

 

Living in Orange County (Ca), we deal with warm weather most of the year. The reason we can start peels in November despite the 80 degree days is because we are not outside as much and the heat is not as long or strong each day. Going to the beach, having BBQ’s and outside parties are limited. You still need to wear sunscreen everyday but it’s easier to control how much sun you get.

I will take good care of you and your skin. I can’t wait to see your after picture!

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If you have any questions, please email me: devyn@psblounge.com

Moisturizers

For this week on product talk, I am going to discuss moisturizers.

First thing to know…everyone should wear one. Moisturizers offer different things but the one thing they all do, is protect the skin. The name itself is a little misleading in my opinion. Most people think that if you are feeling really dry, then just add moisturizer to fix it. This isn’t necessarily the case. You need actual hydration, like water, to hydrate the skin. Moisturizers lock in hydration. So if you are applying serums on damp skin and then immediately applying your moisturizer, you will be locking in that hydration and protecting your skin.

Now those that have oily skin or even those with acne tend to shy away from moisturizers. Please don’t. When you have oily skin, you need hydration. Your skin produces oil because it feels dehydrated and since it cannot produce water, you get oil. If you do the steps I said before…apply serums on damp skin and then immediately apply your moisturizer, then your skin will have hydration and therefore will begin to balance itself out. This is not going to be a quick fix. It’s something you have to do everyday. It’s also why I love grapeseed oil so much. It deeply hydrates your skin at night and in time, helps to balance the oil your skin is producing.

So now you know that everyone should wear a moisturizer but now I’m going to help you find one that works for you. I of course have my recommendations I am going to talk about but here are some tips.

  1. Figure out your issue. Do you have dry skin? Oily skin? There are different moisturizers for different skin types and someone with dry skin will not like a moisturizer for oily skin.
  2. Avoid moisturizers that contain mineral oil or petrolatum (another word for petroleum jelly). Definitely pore clogging ingredients. I’ll also throw in coconut oil since that is still a thing I hear about all the time. And yes, I know that some people use it and don’t have a problem…at least one they know about. It can irritate the skin and cause issues down the road. An important thing to know is that coconut oil doesn’t even penetrate the skin, it just lays on top. So if you are looking for hydration, this one won’t do it for you.
  3. Once you pick one out, then here is a test you can do to see if it is appropriate for your skin. Apply it and wait 5 minutes. If you can still feel it, it’s too heavy for your skin.
  4. For those that love a moisturizer that does a lot of things like a BB Cream, remember that skin care and makeup should always be separate. Anything that can correct the skin needs to penetrate. A BB Cream is only going to sit on the surface because it’s also a moisturizer. It’s not possible for it to do both, penetrate and sit on the surface.
  5. Tinted Moisturizers- I think the idea of these are great but here is my suggestion. Find a moisturizer you love that is appropriate for your skin and also a foundation that also meets your needs. Then make your own tinted moisturizer. You get what you want and need from each product without compromising. And as an extra tips, apply your regular moisturizer first (and then hopefully your spf) and then your tinted moisturizer. Skin care first, makeup second. Also, if you have dryness or crevices in your skin, as most people do, the tinted moisturizer will lay more evenly on your skin if you apply the regular moisturizer first. And just as a side note: don’t bother with spf in your foundation. You have to wear 7x the amount you would (hopefully) normally wear to get that number on the bottle. If you always remember skin care first and makeup second, it will help you make a lot of decisions.
  6. Moisturizers with SPF- This is fine. I prefer it separated but it’s not the end of the world.
  7. Sometimes you need to change up your moisturizers for seasons. Those with dry skin don’t seem to need to as much (I know I don’t) but if you have oily skin, sometimes you feel like you need something lighter in the summer.
  8. Moisturizers are important and should not be skipped. They do offer benefits for the skin but are not the skin changers that people expect. That’s why we have serums.

Now I will discuss the moisturizers I use and retail.

SS Light Aloe Moisturizer– I love this moisturizer for my teens, acne and oily skin clients. It’s very lightweight. Aloe is great for helping to heal the skin.

Benefits: Improves surface hydration
Encourages proper moisture levels
Normalizes water / oil balance
Soothing and Calming
Improves Skin Function

SS Ageless Skin Moisturizer– This one is a step up from the Light Aloe. It gives the skin a little bit more so usually when the skin improves, my clients will move from the Light Aloe to this one. It’s also just a good basic moisturizer. And it’s only about $15 so you can’t lose.

Benefits: Ageless Skin Moisturizer Benefits:
Improves Surface Hydration
Encourages Proper Moisture Levels
Soothing and Calming
Improves Skin Function

SS Hydrating Moisturizer– This one is for dry skin. It has aloe, shea butter and rose hip which all helps to heal, strengthen and soothe dry, inflamed skin. I used this one for years before I became obsessed with another. At only about $23, this one is great for dry skin and isn’t expensive.

Benefits: Binds moisture to the skin to reduce wrinkle depth
Boosts collagen to improve appearance of wrinkles
Soothes and heals chapped and irritated skin

SS Cacteen Balancing Moisturizer– I like this one for my sensitive skin clients. Gives the skin what it needs without anything in it to possibly irritate it.

Benefits: Provides anti-inflammatory-like benefits                                     Normalizes water/oil balance                                                                                  Soothes and calms

SS Peptide Restoration Moisturizer– This is a good anti-aging one. It has antioxidants and peptides to help with the growth of epidermal cells. Feels great on the skin. I like this one but I do have 2 others that are my favorites to recommend for anti-aging.

Benefits: Skin repair and wound healing
Reduces wrinkles
Reduces inflammation
Antioxidant/anti-aging

LM Essence Moisturizer– Lightweight and hydrating moisturizer. It’s an anti-aging one but more lightweight than most. Our skin gets drier as we age so this is the beginners anti-aging moisturizer.

LM 24 Hr. Age Defying Cream– I can’t say enough about this moisturizer. It’s what I use now and I am in love with it. I love the way it feels and I love the way it makes my skin glow. Definitely for normal to dry skin. Really great to use on the neck and chest! This one is a little pricey and honestly, if I didn’t love it so much, I wouldn’t retail it. I always am aware of what things cost but this is a special product. This is worth it, in my opinion.

LM Bio Cell Rejuvenating Cream– Another fantastic moisturizer from Le Mieux. While this one actually costs less than the Age-Defying Cream, it is the one to use for anti-aging so I recommend this to clients usually 50 years and up. It’s creamy and silky and makes your skin look and feel amazing. It’s got lots of amino acids and peptides to help you age gracefully. It even has hyaluronic acid in it!

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Professional vs OTC

I am always asked about drugstore type products. As an esthetician, I only want to recommend products that I believe in and that I know will be good for the skin. The professional lines that I use and retail were chosen because of the research I did. I didn’t just pick them because they are professional but because I know they will do what is expected. I know that the products I retail are high quality and results driven. I know there are a lot of active ingredients that will make changes in my clients skin. And by looking at some of the over the counter products (this includes places like Target and Nordstrom), the prices aren’t always higher for a professional line, especially the ones I use and retail.

So let me tell you the difference between professional lines and the over the counter ones…

Professional Lines

  • Made in small batches
  • High levels of active ingredients
  • Chirally Correct- meaning only those ingredients that are molecularly appropriate for the human body to use
  • Does not contain colors or dyes
  • pH adjusted- meaning the products help keep our skin at a healthy pH
  • Smaller molecules so that the good ingredients can get in and do their job!

Over the Counter Products

  • Made in large batches and preservatives are added so they can last longer
  • Usually have lower percentage of active ingredients because they are sold as “for all skin types.” This means that the products need to be more basic and simple so as to not cause issues.
  • Formulated by chemists (not estheticians or those who have worked closely with skin)
  • Contains fragrances, colors and dyes to make products look and smell better for the consumer but can irritate the skin
  • Contains fillers and low quality, inexpensive oils that can clog pores.
  • High SPF numbers that mislead people into thinking that they are more effective with there is no scientific proof. So more chemicals, not more protection
  • Just because the bottle, jar or tube says that there is an ingredient in it, doesn’t mean there is enough to do anything for the skin

So let’s talk about some over the counter favorites.

Cetaphil– Cetaphil has sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), which is one of the most overused synthetic cosmetic ingredient that strips your natural lipid barrier. This surfactant and how it effects the skin makes you more susceptible to external irritants, increases internal inflammation while your skin cells become stressed, intensifying redness and possible breakouts as it negatively impacts your natural pH. It’s important that our skin is pH balanced since it’s first thing protecting us from bacteria.
It says that the Cetaphil cleanser is pH balanced, which it just might be, in the bottle. As soon as it comes in contact with our skin, it interferes with our own pH.

St. Ives Apricot Scrub– The walnuts used in this scrub are too big and with jagged edges. They will tear at your pores, enlarging them and also spreading bacteria from one side of your face to the other. Please never buy this again. If you currently have some, use it on your feet.

CeraVe– Some are ok to use, some products contain pore clogging ingredients and some can trigger rosacea flare-ups. I know they are all about barrier support but there are ingredients that can cause problems but not for everyone. If you went on vacation without your moisturizer, I would probably suggest this line.

Micellar Water– If you like it, it’s fine to use but only a pre-cleanse or makeup remover. I wouldn’t use this as your only cleanser.

Biore Strips– Are people still using these? Please don’t. It looks very satisfying when you pull that strip off your nose because there is stuff on it but guess what? That’s only getting the surface and not what’s under the skin. Just wait 2-3 days and it’s all coming to the top again. Go see a professional and get extractions. That’s what will help your blackheads!

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Serums- The Skin Care Product You Should be Using!

For the second week of product talk, I am going to discuss Serums.

Every product you apply to your skin is important but I think serums do most of the work. Serums are more advanced formulations with smaller molecules that are able to penetrate the skin deeper. Serums treat the skin in a more specific way to address your skin needs.

There are many out there and they all do different things. I do believe that some are better than others. If you’re looking for effectiveness, professional is always the way to go. I say this with every product but since you want serums to make a change for your skin, this is the most important investment. In my opinion. I did some research and I was shocked to see how expensive some serums are at Nordstrom. If you’re going to pay that much, it might as well be products that will actually have enough active ingredients to make a difference.

Some people aren’t sure when to start using a serum. I think everyone at age 18 should be using vitamin c. After that, it depends on your skin and its needs. At age 30 you start losing about 1% of collagen a year so then I start my clients on an additional serum. Sometimes people need something extra earlier. Everyone is different. I don’t agree that a 25 year old should be using what a 40 year old person is using. It’s almost wasteful. There is such a thing as preventing but I think we are starting to get carried away. Botox and fillers are being injected in people at a much younger age than necessary. Please listen to my podcast (Pure Skin Talk) about how I feel about those. I’ve had too many young clients come to me using some random product that someone at Nordstrom told her she should use. Most of the time, it wasn’t needed.

I’ve had people ask me about whether they should change up their routine every once in awhile. Yes, you can but you don’t have to. Just as your body never gets used to healthy food, your skin doesn’t get used to healthy products.

Not all serums are for all skin types. Most of the ones I retail are but if you don’t consult with me, make sure it’s compatible.

I basically carry two professional lines, Skin Script and Le Mieux. While I love both, I favor some products in each. I am obsessed with Le Mieux serums. They are incredibly inexpensive for their benefits (but don’t tell them because I don’t want them to raise the prices!).

Ageless Skin Hyaluronic Serum- This is actually a good serum and for it’s price at only $30, it’s definitely worth it. It will hydrate your skin. I sell this one for those that want something beneficial but not a lot of money. It’s like the intro Hyaluronic serum.

Benefits:

Improves Hydration
Reduces Visible Wrinkles
Plumps the Skin
Assists in Healing and Rejuvenating

SS Beta-Carotene/Papain Renewal Serum- With aloe and olive. A mild exfoliation serum for sensitive skin. Beta carotene is a precursor to Vitamin A; papain is an enzyme derived from papayas. I like this one because it can be used on pregnant or lactating women. They are so limited during this time and this is a good serum to exfoliate and brighten the skin.

Benefits:

  1. Improves Skin Barrier Integrity by Balancing Surface Lipids
  2. Exfoliates to Reduce Visible Wrinkles
  3. Anti-Inflammatory

So before I get started on all the Le Mieux serums, I want to talk about Hyaluronic Acid. This is a hugely popular ingredient right now and it should be. It’s one of the best you can use on your skin and since we make it naturally (although it slows down in our late teens), everyone can use it.

Hyaluronic acid is a humectant, which means that it draws moisture from its surroundings. It can hold 10x times its weight in water. This ingredient can replenish a lot of moisture. As we get older our skin loses the ability to retain water and that’s where hyaluronic acid helps. Hydration makes our skin plump and that makes us look younger.

All of LM serums that I retail, except for one, uses hyaluronic acid as its base. So whatever issue you’re treating, hydration will always be addressed.

LM Hyaluronic Acid Serum- I just explained what this will do for you. It’s great for those with dry and dehydrated skin. I often recommend this as an extra serum when clients are feeling particularly dry.

LM Vita-C Serum- My #1 seller! Like I said before, everyone 18 and over should use it so this is the first serum I start my clients on. If you want to see a difference, start wearing it. Fight prematurely aging skin with this concentrated serum from the most stable, pure quality and maximum strength Vitamin C (Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate). Stimulates collagen production to illuminate a dull complexion, brightens the skin and delays the loss of healthy skin tone. All skin types can wear this one especially those with acne. Helps in healing scars.

LM TGF-Β Booster- My 2nd best seller! This is always the second serum I recommend to clients and usually starting at about 30. Diminishes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles for a luminous, healthy, youthful glow. The anti-aging serum.

LM Rx Complex Serum- I love this serum for men! It’s kind of all in one. Great for hydrating, also has vitamin c and it helps with fine lines and wrinkles. Men generally aren’t interested in applying a bunch of different serums. Although I prefer to separate and use multiple serums because it’s more effective, this one gets the job done. My male clients love it!

LM Derma Relief- Oh my gosh. I discovered this serum a few years after I got started with LM products. I don’t know why it took me so lone because it’s actually perfect for my skin. This makes my skin feel silky. This lipid replacement serum provides instant relief for very dry, stressed skin. Features powerful ceramides, a superior form of Vitamin E, and 13 exotic oils including argan oil and kukui nut oil to soothe skin, minimize inflammation, and restore suppleness and resiliency. Helps repair skin damage caused by environmental aggressors. I use this year round but some clients only use in the winter.

LM Collagen Peptide Serum- This serum is more pricey than the others which is why I don’t think I talk about it much. I’m always concerned about price for my clients. But here’s the thing, I love it. I use this serum every night. It’s a little creamier than the others and it feels great on my skin. This concentrated, creamy serum features 4 peptides and marine algae extracts to dramatically lift and tighten sagging facial contours while smoothing out expression lines and wrinkles. Nourishing ceramides help hydrate, extend moisture, and restore skin resiliency.

LM Retinol Serum- This is also a pricier serum but you only use it once or twice a week so it lasts as long as the others. What can I say about retinol that you don’t already know? It’s a great anti-aging ingredient. This 0.5% retinol concentrated serum resurfaces skin to minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, brighten dull skin, fade sun-induced age spots, and improve rough texture. The peptide-infused formula and revolutionary Tri-Cosmetic Delivery System help boost collagen and elastin production for a fresh, glowing, and age-defying complexion.

This serum is a little more expensive but you only use it about twice a week so lasts longer!

So here are the serums I use daily…Vita-C and Derma Relief in the morning. TGF Booster and Collagen Peptide at night. I can only use the Retinol serum once a week so on that night, I skip my other two night serums.

Listen, I’m trying to do everything I can to hold off botox, fillers, lifts and plastic surgery. I’m not even sure I would get them anyway but I need my skin to look good. It’s my business but it’s also my face! I want it to look good!

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Hyperpimentation. How to Fix It!

Hyperpigmentation. It’s something we all struggle with, unfortunately. There are a lot of products out there making huge promises to get rid of it for. I’m going to break it down and explain to you the best options for the skin, without damaging the skin. As you know, that is always my goal. Let’s fix the problem without causing another one.

Some people are more prone to it than others, based on genetics, but everyone is susceptible. From the fairest skin to the darkest. This is why wearing sunscreen is so important for everyone (I’ll get more into that later).

Remember, no one is born with it. Every baby is free of hyperpigmentation, including freckles, which is also a type of hyperpigmentation.

Freckles are caused by melanin. Melanin is a pigment in the skin and is what gives skin its color. When the sun hits the skin, it causes a production on melanin so that it can protect the skin layers underneath. Once melanin builds up in one place, a freckle is the result.

Here are some ways our skin develops the pigmentation.

Sun Exposure– The sun triggers the production of melanin. The skin is usually worse in the summer months. Using good skin care and regular facial treatments, you can minimize damage. It is completely normal to have your skin get darker in some spots in the summer and lighter in those same spots in the winter. I want to also say, and this is important to remember, sun damage can take up to 10 years to show. That means you can think that your skin is fine after a summer in the sun but later your skin will show the damage. I haven’t tanned my face in 10 years and I am still surprised at the damage that shows up. I had a good time in my teen years and my 20’s!

Heat– This one usually surprises people. Most think that as long as they avoid the actual sun, they will not have any pigmentation. It definitely helps but heat triggers inflammation and inflammation triggers the increase of melanin activity. So even if you go to the beach and wear sunscreen, big sunglasses, a big hat and sit under a big umbrella you can still get the damage. Sorry, folks!

Over-Exfoliation– I am super careful with my clients on how often they exfoliate. When I create a home care plan for them, I consider both the physical and chemical exfoliations. Too much can cause pigmentation. As I said above, inflammation triggers the increase of melanin activity. Even if you can’t see the inflammation, it can still be happening.

Picking at Blemishes/Acne– This is bad for many reasons but one of the biggest ones is that it can create what is called post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). And like sun damage, you don’t always see it until a few years later.

Hormones– Due to the increase of hormones during pregnancy, melasma is often caused. Just another form of pigmentation but harder to lighten. A lot of women will experience what is called a “pregnancy mask.” The upper lip will darken. This can also happen with birth control and even some medications. Always ask your doctor. I have seen many clients with melasma all over their face so it’s not exclusive to the upper lip. Everyone is different in how they will react but there are some worse than others. I once took a birth control pill and immediately started getting that mask above my lip and I switched that pill real fast! Luckily, no long-term damage was done.

Now I will discuss ways to help the pigmented areas.

Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant, shown to reduce the number of sunburned cells as well as reverse age-related damage to the skin. Antioxidants help fight cell damage from free radicals, which are molecules that could injure cells and increase inflammation.

It does not replace sunscreen, but Vitamin C protects against and may repair UV damage, like discoloration. It also helps brighten the skin, which can make the overall appearance of the skin healthier. This is safe for those pregnant or lactating.

Retinol- A natural form of Vitamin A, this boosts the thickness and elasticity of the skin therefore reducing the signs of wrinkles.

There is an abundant amount of evidence to support that retinol works! Finding it in the right products is the tricky part because you need to have enough to get results. Most over-the-counter products cannot put enough retinol in them to give you the benefits you need. Retinol works by promoting cellular renewal and collagen production to improve skin texture and to diminish brown spots. Not safe for those pregnant and lactating.

This serum is a little more expensive but you only use it about twice a week so lasts longer!

Exfoliation- It’s important not to exfoliate the skin to break up the pigmented areas. As I said before, be careful not to over-exfoliate. I have a great scrub that also acts as a mask. It has glycolic acid and retinol in it with gentle jojoba beads. I love it because over time it helps to lighten and lift hyperpigmentation. I also have these amazing glycolic/retinol pads that act as a toner so it’s a leave-on. Perfect for hyperpigmentation. Book a product consultation with me if you are interested in having me look over your routine using your products.

Great for lightening the skin!

 

Sunscreen- Wear it everyday. SPF 30 is the perfect number. Most damage is done incidentally (about 78%), which means when you are not at the beach but just running errands around town or sitting in your car or next to a window at work. And just as a reminder, sunscreen in your makeup will not help. You have to wear about 7x the amount to actually get that number on the bottle. Sunscreen is skin care and skin care is separate from makeup. Skin care first, makeup second.

Facials- Always important but getting a facial (book with me if you’re local!) when dealing with a specific skin issue will definitely help. Make sure you address your concerns with your esthetician. What you see and what she (or he) sees may be different.

Chemical Peels- Oh my gosh! Anyone who knows me know these are my favorite especially when done in a series. I will only perform the chemical peel series between November and May because of the sun exposure. I am strict on this rule. No point in fixing the skin while damaging it. My series are done weekly over 8 weeks. Slow and steady. I recommend a home care plan so my clients can get the most benefits. They basically have no downtime and can resume normal activities. They might experience some flaking but nothing embarrassing or that will make you want to hide out in your house. You don’t have to peel with a peel because all the change is happening under the top layer.

Results from a Chemical Peel Series and using recommended home care products.

 

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